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Will Popularity Ruin the Macaron?

03/02/10, by Kate Hopkins Email 2384 views • Categories: Food News

From a very weird article in the Wall Street Journal:

Like the cupcake before it, the macaron, a French confection that resembles a pastel-colored sandwich cookie, is ready for its close-up.

It has been featured on film and television, in magazine articles and a new book called "I Love Macarons" by a Japanese pastry chef. Once the preserve of high-end French patisseries such as Ladurée and Pierre Hermé, macarons are showing up at retailers like Whole Foods, Trader Joe's and Starbucks. Even McDonald's is selling a scaled-down version in its McCafés in France, backed by ads showing two hands holding the tiny treat like a hamburger.

Instead of celebrating, however, fans of the meringue-like pastry have been whipped into a frenzy.

"Macarons are not meant to be mainstream," sniffs Laetitia Brock, a native of Paris who has been blogging about French culture from Washington for the past six years.

I...jus...Bwah?? Macarons are not meant to be mainstream? What does that even mean?

I say this as a tremendous fan of the delicate pastry, and am lucky enough to have a bakery within walking distance from my house that makes a passable version (although they do tend to let them sit out too long.) To imply that these treats are too "French", or too "upscale" is ludicrous both at face value and after a minute of introspection. Yes, mainstream, large-scale chains and corporations who tread down the path of making macarons will offer up passable, yet mediocre versions. But that's what these places do for nearly every product they offer to the public. Why should macarons be any different?

You know what I would love to see happen? Starbucks and/or McDonalds should start offering their mediocre versions in their restaurants, and then local coffee shops/bakeries who have been offering cupcakes for the past three years realize they can do a much better job at making them will start doing so. Voila!

Macarons entering the mainstream is a good thing. And because there are so many people who love them passionately, we're almost assured of finding better alternatives to the mediocrity that corporate chains will invariably produce.

What tickles me about all of this is the air of arrogance that the article alludes to within some of the interviewees. They sound nearly as pretentious as a few indie rock critics I've read in the past who've said things along the lines of, "Pfft. Macarons were so much better before they sold out."


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: SunshineGrrrl [Visitor] Email
I had been looking to try these things for ages but couldn't find them(Actually I couldn't find Bakery Nouveau which I knew had them). Recently a friend of ours moved within walking distance and we managed to pick up a bunch and shared them amongst ourselves. They were amazing.

I think you hit the nose of what bothers me a lot with many of the "foodie" blogs out there. That kind of arrogance of either, I'm better than everyone else because I spend $50 on olive oil or that mainstream makes their little secrets somehow less amazing.
PermalinkPermalink 03/02/10 @ 09:56
Comment from: smallstep for humanity [Visitor]
"high-end French patisseries such as Ladurée" are the ones that made them mainstream by opening up stores all over the globe
PermalinkPermalink 03/02/10 @ 11:18
Comment from: Jackson [Visitor]
There was an NPR story a few weeks ago about macarons and everyone interviewed (including the people making them) pronounced it "maca-ROON". I don't care how popular they get I just don't want to see anyone confusing these with coconut macaroons. They might have had the same historical origin but are different products now.

I can see it now - "McDonalds introduces the McRoon"
PermalinkPermalink 03/02/10 @ 11:20
Comment from: Laetitia Brock [Visitor] Email · http://www.FrenchTwistDC.com
As someone quoted in the article, I totally own up to what I said, even if it makes me sound pretentious ;-) But yes, it's very comparable to indie bands. You love that other people have finally discovered, because they're great and you wish the whoel world would know. But at the same time you miss the good old days...
PermalinkPermalink 03/02/10 @ 13:23
Comment from: Laetitia Brock [Visitor] Email · http://www.FrenchTwistDC.com
and yes, I hate when people call them macaroons. Alain Ducasse's Adour restaurants insist on calling them macaroons. Drives me crazy!
(sorry for all mispelling in previous comment... trying to type fast...)
PermalinkPermalink 03/02/10 @ 13:25
Comment from: Tine [Visitor] Email
It's a bit the same with sushi here in Germany. at first you had to be edgy and hip to try "raw fish" but now most cities have sushi bars and the quality gets better. I love it when I can share new, tasty stuff with friends - it's not as if it tastes less good because others like it too! (I get it a bit with indie bands, though - the fear of them changing to get more money/reach lager audiences now that they're famous and such).
PermalinkPermalink 03/02/10 @ 14:50
Comment from: LB [Visitor] Email
Everyone in Paris eats Parisian style macarons (those which are referred to in the article), they are not exactly elitist food. This isn't about macarons but peoples attempts to seem cultured an sophisticated, to my mind such snobbery (and snobbery I do not use lightly as it is much abused) is antithetical to true gourmet taste.
PermalinkPermalink 03/03/10 @ 04:06
Comment from: Carol Blymire [Visitor] Email
Starbucks already sells them, and what's awesome (by which of course I mean totally not awesome) is that they've made them in such a way that they're not gluten-free.... like a regular macaron is.

Dumbasses.
PermalinkPermalink 03/03/10 @ 13:29
Comment from: Joanne [Visitor] Email
There are macarons which are solid cookies and then the Parisian kind which are split and layered with creme. I don't know if people in France eat the solid cookies and Paris the creme ones or what. When Fauchon was in NYC one could get creme macarons there. I found them lovingly boxed and sold by the dozen online when I was married in '06 and had them at my wedding. They were elegant, delicate, and loved by all. The multiple pastel colors are perfect for a wedding.
PermalinkPermalink 03/11/10 @ 13:11

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