The Accidental Hedonist's Guide to:




My Book



99 Drams of Whiskey:The Accidental Hedonist's Quest for the Perfect Shot and the History of the Drink


Communication

Poll

Would you support a soda tax if the revenue went to improving our health care system?

View Results

-->

The Mediocre Pepperoni Pizza?

09/26/08, by Kate Hopkins Email 1262 views • Categories: Pizza

Jon Eick over at So Good had a post a week ago that said....well, this:

Pepperoni pizza is not that good. I mean, yeah, it’s good, but it’s not THAT good. Seriously, it’s not. If you think it is, it’s time to get over it, and get over yourself. Wake your boring ass taste buds up, there are many delicious pizza options out there, and the pizza world doesn’t revolve around pepperoni.

If pizza is high quality, a mere slice of cheese is delicious. If pizza is mediocre, I understand the need to add toppings. But I have news for you pepperoni: you ain’t all that and a bag of chips. Pepperoni, while ok, is simply NOT good enough to have earned it’s place as the default pizza order of choice on merit alone.

There's so much here to talk about. Firstly, from a pure historical POV, Jon raises an interesting question. How did pepperoni become the default choice of topping? My guess is that we Americans migrate towards the spicy and flavorful over the bland and subtle, and pepperoni simply powered its way over other mediocre offerings such as hamburger meat disguised as sausage, second rate cheese, and canned, CANNED, mushrooms. With offerings such as these, pepperoni wins by default.

Second, Let's stop playing up the Italian influence on Pizza, because for the most part, we Americans have rarely tasted a truly Italian flatbread. I'm talking pizza from coal or wood burning oven with minimal amount of toppings, toppings which, by the way, could stand on their own. Great pizza makes me weep with joy. American pizza mostly makes me sigh with disappointment.

Part of the sadness with American pizza comes from the fact that we treat our pizza dough so horribly. Much like hamburger buns (which we also ignore taste-wise), the crust of the pizza should works in concert with the toppings, and not merely be an edible plate on which toppings are served. A great crust is a work of art. A mediocre crust is just sad. A mediocre crust requires toppings on top of it that make up for the crusts lack of flavor. Hence, spicy pepperoni.

We here in Seattle have a very odd problem. There's a lack of really great pizza joints that deliver. On the East Coast, I had dozens of options in each major city in each of the cities where I had lived. Here, it's less so.

Now most people here will point to Pagliacci's as perfectly acceptable. But in truth, their crust suffers the same fate as most American crusts. It's tough, and after a few minutes outside of the oven, it becomes difficult to chew. So how do they compensate for this failure?

Their toppings - which includes a pepperoni made by Salumi. Yes, that Salumi. This ends up being sort of the inverse of putting a lipstick on the pig, where in this case the pig improves the mediocre product.

So, I'm with Jon in this. Listen America! Stop settling for the merely average. Quit accepting canned mushrooms, and horrible, horrible, pizza cheese as an option. And for the love of all that is holy, please understand that a mediocre pepperoni can never save a terrible pie.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Rob in NoVA [Visitor]
I'd rather have a slightly "doctored up" frozen Target Archer Farms Buffalo Mozzarella and Roasted Tomato parcooked/reheat "pie" (Parmalat SA?) than anything from a 99% of major chains and most small neighborhood joints.

zPizza, for an American chain does a decent pie; they really concentrate on making a half-way decent crust.

Chicago-style is apostate pizza; pepperoni stacked a half-inch thick?
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 08:32
Comment from: eclecticdeb [Visitor] Email
Thin crust all the way. Light toppings. Tomato, cheese and basil is divine. But so is pancetta, corn, and arugula.

I'm lucky...I live near a few really good pizza places that serve really nice woodfired thin crust pies.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 08:46
Comment from: SunshineGrrrl [Visitor] Email
Thank you Kate for finally putting down the myth of the "fabulous" pagliacci's pizza. I've always found it mediocre at best(I do love that spicy pepperoni however).

That said, I personally really enjoy pepperoni, even on good pizza. Especially when it gets a little crispy around the edges. Pepperoni is also my favorite sandwich meat so go figure. Paprika and I have been friends since childhood and I don't see that going away anytime soon.

My thoughts on pizza are that it should be flavored simply. Too many toppings and you might as well make a casserole. You need to taste the bread, the sauce needs to be not too sweet and usually I like it on the acid side to offset the cheese which should be of good quality if not high. And max of 3 toppings. Anything else is just gilding the lily which I'm adamantly against. My personal preference is for cracker like crusts cooked on a hot hot oven so that they get nice and crispy. Out here, I had one at a farmers market that fit the bill pretty nicely(could have used more salt but that's more of a regional complaint than anything else.)
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 09:14
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com


Lissa,

Pag's crust is really quite horrible, isn't it? I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks so.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 09:25
Comment from: wintermute [Visitor] Email
Pepperoni generally is too oily to make a decent pizza topping. I far prefer ground beef, or ham, or chicken, or... well, pretty much any meat works better on pizza than pepperoni.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 09:30
Comment from: Mithrandir [Visitor] Email · http://www.soundandfury.info/
Most of my last few pizzas have been take and bake. I do them on my gas grill (center burner off, hold temp at 450 deg F), and the crust turns out quite nicely.

Unfortunately, the sauce, cheese and toppings from the take and bake place I've been going to are only so-so.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 10:59
Comment from: Gabe Lippmann [Visitor] Email
I'll never understand the gravitation toward pepperoni. I always blamed alien brainwashing.

I'm fortunate to have many really good options for pizza locally. Yes, even the giant Chicago-style pie, which has it's place and should be enjoyed for what it is.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 11:24
Comment from: Aunt Jenny [Visitor] Email
My favorite pizza place uses a really high-quality pepperoni, very zippy and spicy, and I order it every time. Their sausage, on the other hand, is dull-unto-insipid; it might as well be hamburger meat.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 11:33
Comment from: Alexandra Lynch [Visitor] Email
I simply don't like pepperoni. Conveniently, it doesn't seem to like me either. That was one thing I was not sad to eliminate in an attempt to soothe raging IBS. (Cabbage, on the other hand...sob)

I have occasionally ranted and wondered why it is everyone just assumes everyoene eats and likes pepperoni, especially grilled until it's like oily leather on top of the pizza. Yuck.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 11:57
Comment from: Eat It Brooklyn [Visitor] Email · http://www.eatbrooklynfood.blogspot.com
I understand the problems with pepperoni on pizza, but when the pepperoni is made at Esposito's Pork Store on Court St., and the pizza is made at Lucali, on Henry St., both in Carroll Gardens, then the pepperoni adds a bit of spiciness that makes a plain pizza all the more better. Will post about said pizza next week.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/08 @ 20:17
Comment from: ntsc [Visitor] Email · http://blog.charcuteire.com
While my wife and I have been known to pick up a pizza from Costco, ours assembles their own for cooking at home, mostly we make our own. Crust from Baking with Julia, my wife's home made tomato sauce (we can), locally made cheese and pepperone/Italian sausage from Charcuterie or the CIA Garde Manger.

http://blog.charcuteire.com/2008/02/03/pizza.aspx
PermalinkPermalink 09/27/08 @ 03:56
Comment from: Neil [Visitor] Email
as a pizza-addicted Seattle resident, the near-constant acclaim for Pagliacci boggles my mind. Pure shite, in my book - the crust, the sauce, even their cheese blend is sub-par. Hell, I'd rather get a pie from Pizza Time on Lake City Way. However, A New York Pizza Place on 5th Ave NE (around 82nd or 83rd St) makes a killer crust. You can find it in some grocery stores, too (Metropolitan Markets, I think). The single best pizza I've ever had was at Sal's in New Haven, CT. Super thin, wood fired, hand tossed,etc. All they make is pizza - no calzones, no salads, no subs. Great stuff.
PermalinkPermalink 09/27/08 @ 16:44
Comment from: malka lev adom [Visitor] Email · http://www.medsalsacongress.com
maybe it's just me, but I have a hard time with meats on pizza. Any meat. I've had really good pizza with baby shrimp on it, and my fave topping is definitely onion. totally agree on the issue of quality ingredients. the crust must be super thin, super crispy, with maximum flavor. the tomato sauce must be of FRESH tomatoes, with a little bit of salt and olive oil to accent (and perhaps a teensy-weensy bit of garlic?). the cheese must never be what they call "yellow cheese". it has to be mozzarella, and a GOOD one at that. beyond that, just a little bit of basil, maybe a little bit of fresh vegetables (not canned!)... but when the base is great, there's rarely any need to garnish it.
PermalinkPermalink 09/28/08 @ 00:11
Comment from: melissa [Visitor] Email · http://aloshaskitchen.blogspot.com
Not a fan of pepperoni, so I suppose my comment is biased. But seriously, I don't get why it's the favorite.

If you make a good pizza, there are so many other wonderful ways to enhance an already killer crust and sauce and good quality cheese. But I realize most people don't eat it this way.
PermalinkPermalink 09/28/08 @ 00:22
So...what is the deal with pizza in the St. Louis area? We visited family there last year and were told about their "different" pizza there. We didn't try any, as we were told it was something that needed adjusting to. Doesn't sound good when put that way!
PermalinkPermalink 09/28/08 @ 20:31

Leave a comment:

Your email address will not be displayed on this site.
Your URL will be displayed.

Allowed XHTML tags: <p, ul, ol, li, dl, dt, dd, address, blockquote, ins, del, span, bdo, br, em, strong, dfn, code, samp, kdb, var, cite, abbr, acronym, q, sub, sup, tt, i, b, big, small>
(Line breaks become <br />)
(Set cookies for name, email and url)
(Allow users to contact you through a message form (your email will NOT be displayed.))
What color is a red balloon?