The Accidental Hedonist's Guide to:




My Book



99 Drams of Whiskey:The Accidental Hedonist's Quest for the Perfect Shot and the History of the Drink


Communication

Poll

Would you support a soda tax if the revenue went to improving our health care system?

View Results

-->

The Anatomy of a Knife

07/28/08, by Kate Hopkins Email 1772 views • Categories: Knives

I want to thank everyone who offered their perspective on the recent Justify your knife post. There was plenty of great information in that post. Two things jumped out at me.

First, those who have a passion for their knives really have a passion for them. It was clear, at least to me, that much thought went into everyone's choice of a blade, even when they ran contrary to other commenter's opinions.

Second, it became very apparent that many people did a fair amount of research in order to come to their final personal choice of a knife. So, if I'm going to make an educated decision in regards to my own knife, then the first step is to become educated.

Which leads us to this post.

It has become clear that I have to know comprises a knife. I mean, we all know what a knife, is, as it's quite iconic. Say the word "Knife", and an image immediately appears. But we've taken this for granted, and many people can point out a knife, without knowing it's various parts.

Not that it's a difficult undertaking. For example, most people will recognize the following numbers corresponding to the picture:

One: The blade of the knife. The big metal part that rarely gets held.

Two: The handle of the knife, the part that almost always gets held.

I'm willing to bet that everyone could point those two items out on the knife. But it does get a little trickier after that. Let's focus on the blade.

Three: This is the spine, or back of the knife. It can add to the balance of the knife, as well as comfort. Most spines are flat.

Four: The edge of the knife, which most people call the blade. In fact, the blade is all of the metal part of the knife, the sharp bit is called the edge. The edge can be beveled into several different configurations, which I will talk about at a later date. The point of the blade where the two beveled sides meet is called a burr. This burr is the primary aspect that determines how sharp the knife may or may not be.

UPDATE: Apparently I got the above wrong...either I misinterpreted the book that I got that from, or the book was wrong. I'll have to check when I get home. Meanwhile, Tom wrote in the comments:

the edge is NOT the "burr". A burr occurs along the edge during the sharpening process, it is a curl of metal pushed up when you have ground away enough metal for your two desired angles to meet.

As soon as the burr occurs, you cease to sharpen that side. The burr is then removed (through abrasion on the stone, stropping or cutting into a hard felt pad or pine board).

A burr MUST be removed to get a strong edge. A burr is a very thin piece of unsupported metal and blocks access to the true edge

The knife's edge has several other components, including...

Five: The heel, which is essentially the back third or quarter of the knife (which I've traced in green in the pic above).

Six: The tip, which is the part of the knife's edge furthest away from the handle, meeting up with the spine to form...

Seven: The point. I've read several books which calls this the tip. I'm not saying they're wrong, but I've also seen several other books explain it the way I am. As the Tip of the knife (in the way that I'm defining it) has it's own set of skills associated with it, I thought it best to refer to it this way.

Eight: The bolster is not technically part of the blade, nor is it part of the handle. Consider it the neutral zone between the two parts. It's purpose to provide weight and balance to the knife.

Nine: The finger guard, which is fairly self explanatory. It's often built into the negative space of the bolster.

Then there are two major components of the handle:

Ten: Within the handle is the tang, the extension of the metal component of the blade which connects the handle to the blade. Or, more simply put, the tang is the part of the blade that actually extends into the handle of the knife. There are several different types of tangs, some better than others. I will discuss this at a later date.

Eleven:Last, but certainly not least, is the butt, or the end of the knife.

Each of these aspects can have varying levels of quality associated with it, but that's not the goal of this post. It does give me a good basis in what I should be looking at when determining what's important for me when I buy the knife.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: flaime [Visitor] Email
The very most important thing is that the knife should feel good in your hand and have a heft and movement feel that you are comfortable with. If you don't have a comfortable knife, you won't use it and that's wasted money. And knives aren't cheap (even the inexpensive but good ones aren't cheap).
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 06:56
Comment from: ntsc [Visitor] Email · http://blog.charcuteire,com
Not all knives have bolsters.

I've heard of somebody being held at knife-point, never at knife-tip, but it isn't an unfamiliar term.

And there is a serious movement in the UK to require that Chef's knives not have points as big knives don't need them.

I've not heard the term burr used to indicate where the two sides meet. That is the edge. A burr is a flaw - a very small knick - in the edge.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 07:24
Comment from: Tom [Visitor] Email
One very large mistake: the edge is NOT the "burr". A burr occurs along the edge during the sharpening process, it is a curl of metal pushed up when you have ground away enough metal for your two desired angles to meet.

As soon as the burr occurs, you cease to sharpen that side. The burr is then removed (through abrasion on the stone, stropping or cutting into a hard felt pad or pine board).

A burr MUST be removed to get a strong edge. A burr is a very thin piece of unsupported metal and blocks access to the true edge.

For more, see this post on removing the burr in the challenging case of hard-steel Japanese knives (from one of world's most renowned experts on the sharpening of Japanese knives):
http://knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/827762/
Here you can read about the burr in the context of sharpening any knife:
http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=26036
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 07:27
Comment from: Tom [Visitor] Email
While I'm on the subject of Japanese knives I'm going to evangelize a bit. They are not commonly known in our cultural zeitgeist, but are making inroads through the "gateway" knives of Global and MAC.

Japanese cooking knives are superior in many aspects to those who are willing to put a little more effort into maintenance. You can buy excellent stainless knives from Korin (korin.com) or Japanese Cooking Knives (.com). An 8" can run for as cheaply as $50 (the extremely good value of the Tojiro DP). The stainless steel is harder than a German knife and will hold its edge much longer (however, you have to be a little more careful of how you treat it, because the edge may chip under abuse).

Togahiru and Misono have good stainless steel, extremely hard and easier to sharpen knives in the $60-100 range.

For those that are willing to put in significantly more maintenance, there are high carbon (NON stainless) knives. These knives must be wiped immediately after use and cannot sit wet, or they will discolor and rust. An absolutely amazing compromise comes in the Hiromoto Aogami Super Series (commonly called the Hiromoto AS), available in 8" for about $120. It is a high carbon knife clad in stainless steel and is absolutely spectacular. You have a high carbon edge, which is very easy to sharpen and holds that razor edge through use, and a stainless steel cladding which protects the bulk of the blade. You must still be careful with it, but it is not as demanding as a pure high carbon knife.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 07:34
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
Tom,

Thanks for the info. I've updated the post to reflect what you wrote.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 07:40
Comment from: SunshineGrrrl [Visitor] Email
Something I forgot to add to the last post. For those in the Seattle area, a quick trip out to kirkland and the Epicurean Edge can get you some time with a few of the really high-end knives. They are definitely knife geeks and I always feel just the tiniest bit uncomfortable in there (I don't think they get many women in their store), but that said, they actually know what they are talking about in general and have a good selection of knives. Even a few knives that are traditionally custom made. You'll be paying extra for them, but at the very least you can see what the different ones feel like.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 10:20
Comment from: Dave [Visitor] Email
I second Korin.com I have been slowly replacing my beloved Wustoff with japanese knives one at a time. The quality is spectacular and seems cheap after you have used it for a while. I swear by the Nenohi Nenox blades. Many styles, weights etc. Korin has a resident knife master. Come to NYC and let him hand fit a blade for you - you'll never want another knife.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 10:32
Comment from: Leisureguy [Visitor] Email · http://leisureguy.wordpress.com
No "japanesecoookingknives.com", but I think Tom is thinking of Japanese Chefs Knife.com

Good info, Tom. Thanks.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 10:36
Comment from: Tom [Visitor] Email
Leisureguy is correct! I'm used to seeing it as "JCK". I plan to be in Manhattan in two weeks, and am very excited about seeing the Korin show room. Too bad they don't have the superb Hiromoto AS, almost a good a value at $120 or so as the Tojiro DP is at $50.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 12:18
Comment from: Barbara [Visitor] Email · http://www.tigersandstrawberries.com
I am another Japanese knife fan, and prefer them to Western-style chef's knives, although I will still use them.

I disagree with the idea that large knives do not "need" a tip. The tip of a chef's knife is used for delicate work when greater control is needed. I think that the movement to outlaw traditional chef's knives in the UK is just another case of governmental control gone too far.

But that is just me.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 12:54
Comment from: Tom [Visitor] Email · http://arbeck.net
Tom,

I have the Hiromoto AS in 240mm and it is the greatest knife I've ever used. It is wicked sharp, and holds it's edge forever. I actually pack it on trips when I know I'm going to be cooking because I just can't stand to use anything else.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 13:27
Comment from: Louise [Visitor] Email · http://livinlocal.wordpress.com/
Love the research you are doing! I started on this path a few years back and ended up wimping out and getting something with a block set from a reliable name that looked good on the counter. Still looks good, but hoping to "grow up" and buy a REAL knife some day. ;-)
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/08 @ 19:39
Comment from: Joe [Visitor] Email · http://jhv.blogs.com/eatatjoes/
Kate - you might find some of this useful:

http://www.leevalley.com/shopping/TechInfo.aspx?p=47854

I can't hyperlink it for obvious reasons -- sorry. But I neither work for nor own stock in the company above. I wish I did. :)
PermalinkPermalink 07/29/08 @ 17:43
Comment from: Joe [Visitor] Email · http://jhv.blogs.com/eatatjoes/
BTW, if you want a word for the sharp edge that's not so overloaded with meaning as "edge," I suggest "arris." Sorry for the double comment.
PermalinkPermalink 07/29/08 @ 17:49
Comment from: Grand Cutlery [Visitor] Email · http://www.grandcutlery.com
Wow, what an informative post!! I always enjoying reading about other peoples knowledge when it comes to a blade, and I think this page does an outstanding job.
PermalinkPermalink 04/06/09 @ 11:57

Leave a comment:

Your email address will not be displayed on this site.
Your URL will be displayed.

Allowed XHTML tags: <p, ul, ol, li, dl, dt, dd, address, blockquote, ins, del, span, bdo, br, em, strong, dfn, code, samp, kdb, var, cite, abbr, acronym, q, sub, sup, tt, i, b, big, small>
(Line breaks become <br />)
(Set cookies for name, email and url)
(Allow users to contact you through a message form (your email will NOT be displayed.))
What color is a red balloon?