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Respect Among Cooks

08/07/08, by maura Email 1430 views • Categories: Home Cooking, Why We Eat What We Eat

Jumping off of the recent Cook’s Illustrated kerfluffle, my on-going obsession with recipes and their role in cooking, and, coincidentally, Kate’s post about food blasphemy (I swear I didn’t steal this idea from her.), I’ve been thinking lately about the importance of respecting other people’s tastes and cooking methods.

Most Americans are lucky enough to afford whatever food they want, so food has become more than just sustenance to us. Cooking and eating have become a creative outlet, entertainment and a status symbol. Food is marketed the same way fashion and cosmetics have been marketed for decades. Cooking magazines have “What’s In, What’s Out” columns. Like hairdressers in the 60s, chefs have become stars, where previously they worked mostly in anonymity. Restaurants sell an experience as much as they sell food. How else to explain a restaurant where customers eat in total darkness? As a result, food is no longer a part of living, it’s a lifestyle.

I spend a lot of time on food blogs. Most of the time, there’s a lot of friendly discussion and exchange of ideas on these blogs, and it’s like one, big, happy food-loving family. But I also frequent blogs where fights break out on a regular basis. It’s the snobs against the cretins. People who always make their own stock vs. people who use canned. Roast chicken vs. molecular gastronomy (a conversation I got myself embroiled in, adamantly on the side of roast chicken, and most certainly on the side of those who believe traditional cooking is still relevant).

I won’t even try to deny that I’m strident in my opinions about food. There are some things that appall me – gourmet pizza, mayonnaise on a hamburger, sugar in red sauce, Cool Whip, and ranch dressing. (Seriously, I wish someone could explain this country’s fascination with ranch dressing. I think it’s vile. The turkey, bacon and guacamole sub we ordered at Quizno’s included ranch dressing. When we said we didn’t want it, the people behind the counter looked at us like we had lobsters coming out of our ears. Here in Durham, wings – which are already of questionable quality – come with ranch dressing instead of blue cheese. If you ask for blue cheese, the server brings you ranch dressing too.)

I’m Woody Allen in Annie Hall, who nearly has an aneurysm when Diane Keaton orders a corned beef sandwich on white bread with mayonnaise. There was a time when something like that would have sent me on a tirade. I once gave a friend of ours a five minute speech after watching him put sugar on his pizza. I believe it started with “What the hell are you doing?”

However, these days I keep that approaching aneurysm to myself. I’ve seen my own taste and cooking methods vehemently criticized on some of the food blogs I visit. I’m not embarrassed to say that the criticism hurt. Not because someone disagreed with me, but because of the way it was expressed. It didn’t matter to me that it was just some stranger on the internet. Being publicly insulted upsets me. There’s a way to disagree with someone, and essentially saying “you’re an idiot for doing it this way and you suck” isn’t it. That got me thinking about how my own rants made other people feel. It can’t have been good. No one wants to have their worth as a human being questioned because of something they like.

Due to my chronic back problems, I’m not always able to make dinner, and I’ve been teaching Logan how to cook. At first I hovered over him, even though I was supposed to be resting, repeating “no, no, no, don’t do that” so many times I think he started to believe “no, no, no” was his first name. He did need some guidance, and we had to start somewhere, but I got a little carried away with insisting he do it my way, even as he became more comfortable making his own decisions. When he got over his biggest hurdle, which was understanding how flavors work together, I started to back off, mostly letting him do his thing. We learn more from our mistakes than we do from our successes, and over the years he’s been gracious enough to suffer through my experiments. The least I could do was give him the same consideration. And the man is a natural at cooking. Maybe it’s because he’s almost entirely right-brained. At any rate, I generally leave him to his own devices now. When he needs help, he asks.

Who wouldn’t like to have someone cook for them, when that person is someone who knows how to cook and loves doing it? No one except a cranky control freak-in-the-kitchen who’s pissed off because she can’t always do it herself, that’s who. My friend B. has been staying with us for several months. Just thinking about sharing my kitchen with someone else freaks me out. Having to actually do it was…a learning process, shall we say.

I wanted her to feel at home, and that included her not thinking she had to ask when she wanted to cook something. But I wanted her to cook like I do. Except she doesn’t. We have the same basic attitude about cooking – simple food, fresh ingredients. But her methods differ from mine, and it was all I could do to not tell her she was doing something wrong. I mean, it was crazy, because she doesn’t do anything wrong. She just does it differently. I cook chops on the stove, she does them in the oven. I make biscuits from a recipe, she just throws stuff in a bowl. She puts peas in salads, and I would never have done that, because I’ve always hated peas. (A duh moment: Fresh peas and canned peas are two completely different things. I don’t hate peas anymore.)

I’ve come to terms with having other people in my kitchen, using their own techniques, and we’ve had some great meals as a result. Who makes dinner changes from one night to the next, depending on who’s in the mood; among the three of us, we manage to have a good, healthy dinner most nights. Occasionally we order a pizza, or Logan works late, and B. and I decide to have popcorn and cookies for dinner while we smoke cigarettes and watch 100 episodes of Law & Order.

It’s just about respect. When you criticize what people eat and how they cook, you’re also criticizing who they are and where they came from. You’re likely dissing someone’s mama, and that’s never OK.

I usually take the middle ground these days. I might not like what someone else likes, and I might think my cooking techniques are the best. I’m still going to think “how could anyone put mayonnaise on a cheeseburger? It’s fracking gross.” But I keep my mouth shut, because no one should be forced to justify their likes and dislikes to me.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: WineWench [Visitor] Email
I felt the need to respond to something you said that struck me as perhaps a bit uninformed in reference to roasting a chicken vs. molecular gastronomy..."and most certainly on the side of those who believe traditional cooking is still relevant". I find it offensive that so many think that these avant garde chefs view traditional cooking as irrelevant. If one doesn't have their feet rooted in basic skills and traditions, then one can not build on them. These chefs (the good ones) still strive to serve a meal that satisfies the hunger in our bellies AND our souls. They seek out the best and freshest ingredients and work passionately at their craft so that all of your senses will be enticed during your meal, and so that you will PAY ATTENTION to what you eat. That doesn't seem much different than what the chef who roasts a chicken expects, does it? Cooking is a form of expression...technique is merely the language. There is just as much science involved in perfecting a souffle as there is in using alginate.
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 08:42
Comment from: etselec [Visitor] Email · http://etselec.livejournal.com
And the molecular gastronomy debate rears its head again...

I just realized that when I brought that stuff over to make pasta that one night that I was seriously traipsing on the Maura's Kitchen territory. Thanks for not making me aware of it at the time. :)
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 09:25
Comment from: ketherian [Visitor] Email
Very well put.

I've always been more of a sous-chef than an actual chef (in my or anyone's kitchen); always happy to tag along and go with whatever anyone else is cooking. Helping where I can.

I do things a *certain way* that's true. When things are done differently, it is always hard to adjust; but you can learn a lot if you go with the flow. :)
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 09:39
Comment from: Jen [Visitor] Email
I loved the comment about teaching Logan what tastes 'went together' as it reminded me of my younger brothers and their regular 'soup' recipes. It only took one meal for them to learn that using ALL the spices in the cabinet in one meal was overkill, and cinnamon just doesn't always work in beef soups... but they are fabulous cooks now! I'm sure that my mom's patience and encouragement are the reasons why one is a proficient home gardener, canner and cook, and the other owns and runs a restaurant!
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 09:46
Comment from: sheldel [Member] Email
I hate ranch!
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 10:26
Comment from: Aunt Jenny [Visitor] Email
I made biscuits at my mom's house some years back, and she hovered over me the whole time, questioning every step of the way. When I started to add the buttermilk, she asked "You're using a whole cup?" I said "Is that not right?" She looked at me with alarm. "Oh, no, I'm asking you! Your biscuits are so much better than mine, I'm just trying to see what you do differently." I thought she was being a busybody, when really she wanted to learn my "secret."

What I make at home and what I have in a restaurant are generally very different things: I wouldn't order roast chicken in a restaurant (unless it was the French Laundry or Bouchon, of course) because I do that very well at home; and I rarely bother with something "molecular" or architecturally challenging at home (unless I have a lot of time and I'm trying to impress the pants off someone).
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 10:40
Comment from: maura [Member] Email · http://maurarose.livejournal.com/
I find it offensive that so many think that these avant garde chefs view traditional cooking as irrelevant.

It was some of the posters on a particular blog who suggested that traditional cooking is irrelevant, and it took over a considerable portion of the conversation.

I just realized that when I brought that stuff over to make pasta that one night that I was seriously traipsing on the Maura's Kitchen territory. Thanks for not making me aware of it at the time. :)

Are you kidding? I still talk about how good that meal was.
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 12:03
Comment from: Kiriel [Visitor] Email · http://thepapillonpantry.blogspot.com
I try not to judge but there is a line... if I cook some gorgeous meal and someone puts tomato sauce on it without even trying it first, I will be absolutely furious.
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 12:40
Comment from: Alex [Visitor] Email · http://www.eatingleeds.co.uk
"Most Americans are lucky enough to afford whatever food they want"

I think the world media is either desperately mis-reporting the state of the American economy or "most Americans" don't want to eat particularly exciting or interesting food.

I'd be interested in the statistics that back up this claim.
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 15:36
Comment from: justcorbly [Visitor] Email
On Cook's Illustrated:

I don't read the mag or sunscribe to the site, so my exposure is limited to catching odd shows on PBS. They do hype recipes as "Best", and they're not alone in that. However, I've seen a number of recipes on the show that appear to solve common problems many folks would have.

On the recipe copyright: Fair use of copyrighted material is established in the copyright act and in case law and precedence. I.e., it is not what you or I might decide is fair. The only effective way to challenge someone's restrictions on publication and modification is in court. Anyone who spends some time on the web will see many sites that publish verbatim copies of recipes from commercial sites like Food Network and claim them as their own. I gather it's not unknown in the cookbook world, either.

PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 15:40
Comment from: Elise [Visitor] Email · http://simplyrecipes.com
To Justcorbly: "recipe copyright" is an oxymoron as US copyright law does not protect recipes, because they are considered methods or ideas, which are not protected by copyright, unless the expression of the recipe constitutes "substantial literary expression".

Maura, great post! It's amazing how emotionally tied we can be to certain ways of doing things when it comes to food. I for one love mayo on hamburgers. The French eat mayo with their pommes frites, the English vinegar, the Americans ketchup. My grandmother could butcher and prep a chicken, and made stock from chicken feet, and I still remember her with love when I make her lime jello horseradish pineapple salad. I make my own chicken stock because I have time, most of my friends who work and have kids do not, so they use boxed or canned. I think we all need to get off our high horse a bit and let people explore and cook what they like. If it's not the way we would do it, fine. It's not the way we would do it.
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 16:42
Comment from: Mori-neko [Visitor] Email
My boyfriend and I live together, and have been known to get into huge fights over how the kitchen works. I tend to be much more 'by the book' as a cook/baker, and he rarely bakes and cooks more impromptu. We're both pretty good at it, but being around him cooking drives me nuts, and I drive him crazy, too. I'm very territorial in my kitchen, and while we've learned to work around it some... we still argue sometimes.
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 19:45
Comment from: mamabigdog [Visitor] Email
When my husband and I married, he was a terrible cook- over salted, over cooked, over meaty everything. After 12 years of working together in the kitchen, he now cooks my stuff better than I do. However, he does get in a rut, and I will introduce new recipes to the mix, and then we critique them together.

I feel in some cases, I have the right to be a food snob. I once had a friend from the midwest who made spaghetti sauce out of tomato juice, and refused to use garlic or onions because it was "too spicy". She also made "chile rellenos" using a strip of canned green pepper, a stick of Jack cheese, all wrapped in won-ton skins that she fried. Coming from CA, this was sacrilege to me. Of course, I did not criticize, as her family loved her cooking. I just always made sure our family brought food as well.

Who knows, maybe they hated what I cooked too...
PermalinkPermalink 08/07/08 @ 22:19
Comment from: Aunt Jenny [Visitor] Email
Oh, Mori-neko and Mamabigdog, I feel your pain. I've been there and THEN some.

P.S. etselec, will you please come over to my house and make pasta? I've got the KitchenAid roller attachment and cutters (not to mention all kinds of funny-shaped ravioli molds, etc); I'll even be your kitchen bitch and chop vegetables and simmer sauces so you can swan around the place taking credit for everything. Living alone, I just really need "an EVENT" to break out anything more complicated than homemade sauce with Barilla pasta. (But have you seen the incredibly cute tiny versions?

http://www.barillaus.com/home/Pages/PiccoliniShapes.aspx

So adorable you'll plotz...)
PermalinkPermalink 08/08/08 @ 02:58
Comment from: justcorbly [Visitor] Email
Elise, why then do I read and hear about legal challenges to people who have allegedly copied a recipe? Is it all bluster?

I recently heard an experienced commercial magazine editor, who is also the author of several successful cookbooks and a Beard winner, assert that this is a common problem in her industry. She knew of, she said, at least two cookbooks whose publication was being delayed while copyright issues about recipes were being ironed out.

I would accept that a list of ingredients lacks merit as a literary expression, but not the narrative text accompanying it.
PermalinkPermalink 08/08/08 @ 05:18
Comment from: maura [Member] Email · http://maurarose.livejournal.com/
My grandmother could butcher and prep a chicken, and made stock from chicken feet

Using chicken feet produces stock that's so good it could make you cry. You just have to get past seeing feet floating around in the water. :)

I think we all need to get off our high horse a bit and let people explore and cook what they like. If it's not the way we would do it, fine. It's not the way we would do it.

Precisely, Elise. And I like your point about how emotionally tied we are to how we cook. I learned all my basic cooking skills from my mother. Even now, most of what she taught me when I was a kid is law in my house. What's funny is she now calls me up to ask cooking questions.

However, I've seen a number of recipes on the show that appear to solve common problems many folks would have.

justcorbly, there are a few CI recipes I use on a regular basis, so I would never claim that none of their recipes work. I agree completely that their recipes solve some common problems - problems that we can't always figure out ourselves. But I learned years ago that they don't have a 100% success rate, and I learned it the hard way. I broke my, and many other cooks', #1 rule of entertaining - never try a recipe for the first time when I'm having guests over.

My issue with CI is their apparent lack of respect for people who cook at home and consider cooking more than a research project that results in empirical evidence. There is no "best", except in our own opinions.
PermalinkPermalink 08/08/08 @ 06:28
Comment from: justcorbly [Visitor] Email
Re: CI, Maura -- I agree. And, sometimes when you eliminate the problem with something, you find out that people who have been eating that dish for umpteen years like it just fine without the fix. E.g., serve a perfect unsoggy pizza to a lot of the folks I grew up with and you'll hear more than one complaint of "Uhhh.. I don't like crisp crust pizza."

Then, there are the wars over how to make barbeque.

PermalinkPermalink 08/08/08 @ 06:45
Comment from: maura [Member] Email · http://maurarose.livejournal.com/
E.g., serve a perfect unsoggy pizza to a lot of the folks I grew up with and you'll hear more than one complaint of "Uhhh.. I don't like crisp crust pizza."

Oh, definitely. You just can't please some people. :)

I live in barbecue country now, except it's not barbecue that I like all that much (I know. blasphemy!). I much prefer red barbecue, but there's none to be found. At least we have a place that serves brisket.

justcorbly, I think my last response to you came off as a little curt. My apologies. Damn the interwebs and their inability to show tone.
PermalinkPermalink 08/08/08 @ 07:57
Comment from: flaime [Visitor] Email
Just one question: How can you not like mayonaisse on a cheeseburger? It's the only condiment that is palatable!! ;)

On the other hand, catsup (ketchup, whatever you want to call it) is one of the ickiest things mankind has decided to use in food:/.

With regard to the CI thing, if the blogger had taken the time to know her rights beforehand (which everyone who is blogging recipes should do, because your recipes aren't protected either, just the text surrounding), she could have told Cooks Country that what she was doing was well within copyright and they probably would have backed off. Unless the PR flack really thought she knew copyright law, in which case the CC lawyers would hav etold her she was an idiot. But the Cooks Illustrated folks have a vested interest in both confusing people regarding the copyright surrounding recipes, and in keeping their recipes off the net so people are forced to go to the source. It's how they make their money. That, and selling 40 bazillion annoying best of cookbooks every year. Another thing, if you make the recipes from the TV show, they are usually pretty good (not all of them are great, but they are all good, at least). The recipes in both magazines are hit and miss. 1) the chefs doing the recipes in the magazines have predetermined the parameters that they think their readers want in a recipe and try to force the foods into those parameters, and 2) because there are a couple of cooks who do recipes for CI who seem to have rather wonky tastes.
PermalinkPermalink 08/08/08 @ 08:00
Comment from: justcorbly [Visitor] Email
I had some experience with copyright issues and lawyers in a previous life over that does and does not constitute fair use. I noticed then that people representing commercial publishers will happily tell someone "That's not allowed" without making a clear distinction between company policy and copyright law.

I also learned that being in the right about a copyright issue won't keep someone else from dragging you into the expensive legal action need to assert that right.

One other thing I did learn is that the medium of publication -- book, newspaper, web -- usually isn't relevant in a copyright conflict. I.e., bloggers play by the same rules as the big guys.

I'll stand by my assertion that I've seen many recipes, and the accompanying narratives, duplicated verbatim across the web.
PermalinkPermalink 08/08/08 @ 09:43
Comment from: justfoodnow [Visitor] Email · http://www.justfoodnow.wordpress.com
Guess what? I understand you completely! At the end of the day it is the difference between good food and bad food that cannot be argued away. Frankly, as far as I'm concerned, most fast food is bad food, "so shoot me".

Love your post - it's outstanding.
PermalinkPermalink 08/08/08 @ 12:14
Comment from: melissa [Visitor] Email · http://aloshaskitchen.blogspot.com
Really wonderful, thoughtful post Maura.

I have a friend who cooks very differently than I do. She has watched me cook quite a few times and felt the need to question everything I did. It never came off as helpful or inquiring either. I finally had to tell her to back off. We all do things our own way and that should be respected.

As far as adding certain things to foods, like mayo or ketchup, I admit before I really used to cook, I always put hot sauce on everything... like EVERYTHING. I made myself stop once I started cooking a lot because I realized I was ruining/masking the true great flavors of certain meals. Live and learn.

(but mayo on a burger? never! hehehe)
PermalinkPermalink 08/10/08 @ 15:19
Comment from: Erin [Visitor] Email · http://theendivechronicles.com/
I don't understand the obsession with ranch dressing either.
I generally respect others opinions and tastes. I was once served a casserole where the main ingredient was a tub of margarine and I am not exaggerating. I graciously choked it down, but no matter my feelings on the subject it was a recipe he was proud of and I don't think me spouting off about my views on chemical use in food would have been appreciated at that moment.
PermalinkPermalink 08/11/08 @ 10:06
Comment from: Wineguy [Visitor] Email · http://sbwineblog.journalspace.com/
Here's how I build a burger:

bun -- toasted, with garlic butter
mayo
lettuce
tomato
burger
cheese
red onion
avocado or guacamole
catsup
bun (as above)

...but...when I serve them at a party I put out all the stuff and let each person put them together they way they want them. Free will rules! (P.S. -- At my last burger party I saw someone take mayo and a burger but no bun!!)
PermalinkPermalink 08/11/08 @ 11:42

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