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Pilsners

03/11/09, by Kate Hopkins Email 1134 views • Categories: Beer

Two of the many things that make understanding beers so difficult for me are the following:

1) There are very little recognized standards as to what constitutes a specific type of beer. With whiskey, it was relatively easy as many governments had a vested interest in defining their highly taxable spirit. Ireland, the United Kingdom, and the United States have a clear understanding of what makes an Irish Whiskey, Scotch Whisky, or Bourbon. As far as I can tell, there's no similar legal guidance on what makes a Lager, or a Pilsner, or a Bock - other than industry tradition and acceptance. I'm sure definitions are written down somewhere, but these are at best a sort of informal agreement. This leads to the second problem.

2) What one person or institution believes to be one type of beer, some other person or institution has an interest in claiming it can be something else.

That's why I find the topic of pilsners so interesting. For all of the bluster and marketing-speak of Anheuser-Busch, Miller, and Coor's (from here on out referred to as "The Big Three") that try to equate lagers to pilsners, there is a simple tried and true method to determine one from the other.

It all boils down to two things - the use of noble hops, and the use of bottom fermenting yeasts. Lagers have the bottom fermenting yeast in common with pilsners. The hops are a whole different story.

Both Beer Advocate and the Beer Certification Judging Program recognize three sub-varieties of Pilsners: German, Bohemian/Czech, and American. All of these use a type of hops from either the noble classes, or noble cross classes. Use of the ever-popular (and more importantly, ever cheaper) Cascadian hop is a strict no-no.

So the next question is, what what are noble hops and noble cross hops? That's a post for next week, when I finally get to examine just what the big deal is about hops.

But until that time, the thing to take away from this post is this. The difference between a lager and a pilsner comes primarily from the type of hops used in the recipe. The end result is a beer that is a tad bit more bitter has a larger hoppy flavor profile than the typical American Lager.

And bitterness is also a topic to be discussed later. For all of you who disdain beer because of its bitterness, I'm sad to report that for many types of beer, bitterness is a feature and not a bug.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Vivek [Visitor] Email
What do you mean by "Lager" in this post? I'd consider a lager anything brewed with lager yeast, which would include bocks and pilsner, among other things.
PermalinkPermalink 03/11/09 @ 06:54
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
Vivek,

That's sort of the point, really. The definitions of what is what are really lacking.

At the higher level (Lagers vs. Ales) you're absolutely right. lagers are, at their core, based on the type of yeast used. So under this categorization, pilsners are a subset of lagers.

However many people and institutions clearly delineate between what is a lager and what is a pilsners. To them, the world looks like this: Under the Higher level "Lager" category are several subsets containing such sub-categories as Light Lager, Amber Lagers, Dark Lagers, Bocks, and Pilsners. In essence, they're differentiating what defines a lager into smaller pieces.

To The Big Three, I'm not sure they want to make that distinction. In my opinion, I think their marketing believes that a lager is a lager is a lager, regardless of grain or hop composition. They have a vested interest in playing down the differences. The last thing they want is a curious consumer who looks beyond the Budweiser, Coor's, or Miller.

So when I say "Lager" in the above post, what I am referring to is The Big Three perspective.
PermalinkPermalink 03/11/09 @ 07:29
Comment from: Vivek [Visitor] Email
That's fair enough...and it's also amazing how well the Big Three've succeeded at the blending of "lager" and "pilsner" you mentioned. I have a friend who's generally knowledgeable about beer, but who, until I showed him otherwise, was completely dismissive of Pilsner as a beer style because he thought it was just BMC-like beers.
PermalinkPermalink 03/11/09 @ 07:59
Comment from: Jackson [Visitor] Email
I had the same reaction as Vivek. I think its your wording.

Regardless I think a pilsner is defined more by the use of pale malts to arrive at the characteristic golden color. The hops used are important if you want a beer true to the original style - hence the use of Bavarian and Czech hops. But without the pale malts it would just be another lager.
PermalinkPermalink 03/11/09 @ 13:51
Comment from: Joe R. [Visitor] Email
Jackson's right. The pilsner style developed with the use of glass as a drinking vessel. It filled a market niche for something that "looked clean."

What Wikipedia says about Pilsner vs. Lager (as used by the Big Three American brewers) is this: "While Pilsner is best defined in terms of its characteristics and heritage, the term is also used by some brewers (particularly in North America) to indicate their 'premium' beer, whether or not it has a particular hop character." This sounds reasonable to me. It jibes with my gut instinct, which was, "They call it whatever they think will sell."

You're going to have to get out of your rigid characterization to write this book. Not only does the statement "The difference between a lager and a pilsner comes primarily from the type of hops used in the recipe" contain two factual errors, but it is an impediment to understanding.

When in doubt, treat every decision by BMC as a marketing decision and not a brewing one.
PermalinkPermalink 03/11/09 @ 22:00

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