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The Paradox of Popularity

05/30/08, by Kate Hopkins Email 1140 views • Categories: Restaurants, Advertising

I'm about to say something that may send shivers down the spines of restaurateurs everywhere - I don't like eating in busy restaurants.

I know, I know, this goes against the entire concept of business. If a restaurant isn't busy, it's likely struggling. A restaurant, by design, desires to be busy.

But I cannot deny the way I feel. I don't like the waiting for a table when I already have a reservation for a specified time. I despise waiting in line for anything. I'm annoyed when the din of surrounding tables drowns out the conversation with the people I'm breaking bread with. I can't stand when I am pressured, either overtly or through passive-aggressive behavior, to leave so that the next customer can fill my spot.

There's an old maxim out there that goes something like this - whenever someone asks you for your favorite places to eat, you never state your absolute favorite. The idea here is that you don't want the place to lose whatever nuances it may have due to increased popularity.

I'm of the belief that there is a line that a restaurant crosses when it gets too popular, that changes it's quality. Let's call this the "Indie Rock" effect, which is the idea that once a indie rock band goes mainstream, it either loses some aspect, or some aspect changes in such a way that makes it a different experience than what it was before it made it big. Restaurants almost have to go through the same experience. Making dinners for one thousand people a night requires different processes than making dinner for one hundred. That difference, regardless of how slight it may be, is almost always noticeable.

This is one area in which a good, high end restaurant will reign supreme over the regularly frequented corner place. It is my belief that, say, a Michelin rated restaurant can afford to either take less customers or hire well trained staff that makes the diner feel as if they were not rushed at all. That staff can be anyone from the interior designer who pays attention to such things as table placement and the proximity to other customers, to highly experienced cooks and chefs who know how to change their production techniques without changing dining experience. The cost for such skill is applied to the price of the dinner, and is why the check ended up being $300 for two people, instead of the $70 meal one would pay at the local place.

The above is mostly my guess, but it seems logical to me. Unfortunately, I cannot afford these places as often as I wish, so I have to determine another course of action when it comes to finding a place to eat. This is where the above picture comes into play. It is a plate of Pollo Negro Mole that I had at a local restaurant, consumed on a night when the restaurant was half full.

Alas, the owners probably thought that their restaurant was half empty, and therein lies the problem.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Christine [Visitor] Email
Bless you Kate!!! How very true is your observation.

Any chance of getting the recipe to go along with the 'yummy' picture?
PermalinkPermalink 05/30/08 @ 07:35
Comment from: ketherian [Visitor] Email
We try to go to our favorite restaurants off peak hours. It helps, a little. I sympathize with you as I hate hearing someone else's conversation (please don't get me started about cellphones in restaurants).
PermalinkPermalink 05/30/08 @ 08:49
Comment from: emiglia [Visitor] Email · http://recipeworld.today.com
So true! I completely agree. I prefer the little places... and I'll even take the time (and a few bad meals) to seek them out so that I can always feel like I am eating in someone's kitchen instead of a business.
PermalinkPermalink 05/30/08 @ 11:50
Comment from: jp 吉平 [Visitor] Email · http://jpv206.wordpress.com
Kate,
I agree with you 100%. I hate going to places that are slammed. I have a friend who actually seeks those places out; she says, "the food must be good!" I say, boo!

Speaking of professional service:

I've moved to Shanghai, China since the last time I commented here, and I am AMAZED at the poor quality service in both Chinese and expat-oriented restaurants. No, it's not my cultural bias; my Shanghainese friends feel the same way. Aggravation is often part of the dining experience here.

I was in a restaurant with a small dining room with a staff of four or five waiters this evening. They were doing everything but bringing our food. We stopped them so many times, and they always seemed exasperatedly busy. I felt like one Seattle waiter from Spaghetti Factory could have provided better service than the team of four of five that were managing to not bring us our food.
PermalinkPermalink 05/31/08 @ 06:22
Comment from: Katie [Visitor] · http://apartmentcat.livejournal.com
I completely agree with you! The best meals I've had have been on slow days when the staff have time for each customer. I usually go at odd times or on weekdays. E.g. I always go to my favourite dumpling restaurant between 2pm and 6pm. I wouldn't even bother if it was after about 6.30pm - you can't even get in the door. But, oooh! the dumplings are good!
-katie.
PermalinkPermalink 06/01/08 @ 17:59
Comment from: ImagineFreedom [Visitor] Email · http://www.nicholaslambert.com
As a waiter and frequent diner myself, I fully agree. It is a lot more enjoyable to take one's time eating and talking without being packed in like sardines. Running around like a chicken with my head cut off is no way to provide a quality dining experience. It's less about the money for me and more about spreading happiness.
PermalinkPermalink 06/02/08 @ 10:17

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