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Luxury Comfort Foods

06/24/08, by Kate Hopkins Email 1043 views • Categories: Web Finds

Let's get right to the point, shall we? "Luxury Comfort foods" is an oxymoron.

Not only is it an oxymoron, it's one of the most nefarious sorts. Comfort foods are, almost by definition, easily accessible and readily enjoyed. Adding expense to a basic meal like hamburger, whether its using Kobe beef or white truffle paste, reduces the accessibility of said dish. In other words, it takes it out of the hands of the common man and places it firmly into that of the obsessive or the wealthy. I say this, not to disparage the obsessive (of which I am a member) nor the wealthy (of which I am not), but to give proper respect to comfort foods out there.

So when Adam Kuban was quoted as saying this recently...

“Most people don't get to say they've tried the best or most expensive truffles, caviar or wine,” he says. “But a $40 burger is arguably within reach of mere mortals. It's a chance to try the ‘ultimate’ example of something edible, and because it's a burger—well, who doesn't want to eat the ultimate burger?”

...I must respectfully disagree.

I'd argue (and I do note that Adam did say 'arguably') that the more expense added to a dish, the more comfort foods lose whatever connection they had to what made them popular in the first place. Every day eaters of hamburgers are unlikely to seek out the $62 dollar burger at BLT Burger, because comfort food is a regular standby, not a once a year treat. Ditto for $55 Macaroni and Cheese, $100 Philly Cheesesteak or the $1000 sushi roll. All of these foods have their roots as food for the working class. If one truly wishes to pay homage to these meals, one should make them so that they are still affordable on a regular basis to those who made them popular.

Adding whatever the expensive ingredient du jour happens to be to these dishes misses the point of what made these dishes popular in the first place.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Julie [Visitor] Email · http://winemedinemecinci.blogspot.com
I'd much rather see a comfort food (say, mac and cheese) made with good quality ingredients than expensive ones. I want mac and cheese made with real butter, a roux and good cheese (not top of the line, but not processed either). They stop being a comfort food when ingredients are not easily attained by the average home cook in the heartland.
PermalinkPermalink 06/24/08 @ 08:22
Comment from: John [Visitor] Email
I agree with Kate. I wouldn't pay more than $5 for a burger nor will pay more than a couple of dollars for the mac & cheese. Luxury comfort foods are for people with money burning holes in the pockets that they give to me.
PermalinkPermalink 06/24/08 @ 22:04
Comment from: maura [Member] Email · http://maurarose.livejournal.com/
Oh, bless you Kate. I've been complaining about upscale comfort food for years. I blame Wolfgang Puck, who started the trend with his gourmet pizza. It just snowballed from there.

There's something insulting to me about peasant food going upscale. Made well, it's fabulous on its own.

The $100 cheesesteak? Please. I'm from PA, and I've had my share of real cheesesteaks. There's no improving on a real thing.
PermalinkPermalink 06/25/08 @ 05:49
Comment from: SunshineGrrrl [Visitor] Email · http://www.mw4d.com
While I agree with this sentiment for the most part, I can't disagree with anyone who wants to try something different with something familiar. Yeah, it may lose it's meaning as whatever it's progenitor might have been, but it may gain something as another type of food or find a new flavor combo. I think a comfort food could introduce people to knew flavors and new interesting food related wonders if done right and not gotten off the track too much, even if it's got expensive ingredients. That said, I know what you mean. Coming from the south, I loathe any type of chili that isn't made with beef, usually chuck which is a nice balance of flavor, fat, and tenderness. It may be good, but it isn't chili. Not to me.
PermalinkPermalink 06/26/08 @ 00:38

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