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Into the Wild: The Perils of Foraged Food

03/26/09, by Kate Hopkins Email 1165 views • Categories: Food Politics

Here's an interesting article in the San Francisco Weekly about Iso Rabin's, and his new business of creating Community Supported Forage boxes for customers.

...finding an eager and untapped market for his products is the easy part. His is a supply-side problem. In this day and age, hunting and gathering — humans' sole means of feeding ourselves for most of our species' history — is a proposition fraught with ethical, logistical, and legal problems. In the U.S., a gamut of regulations governing food safety and environmental conservation would long ago have rendered any surviving forager societies extinct. And there's no shortage of people who think Rabins' effort to buck the trend of modern agricultural and industrial food production is misguided at best — and dangerous at worst.

The article then proceeds to detail these problems; everything from licensing and governmental regulations, to environmental concerns, to even the issue of finding vegetation not riddled with illness-causing bacteria or mushrooms that could kill people within minutes.

Growing up in a part of the country where hunting for wild foods was a celebrated skill, the idea of foraging for one's paycheck and providing such food to the masses seems romantic to me. But the article paints a picture that makes Rabin's endeavor seem at best, impractical.

I can't help but keep going back to the hunting comparison, because the two have the basic premise of an individual relying on the uncivilized chaos of nature to draw nutrition. Each state pays at least a little bit of attention to the world of the hunter, and laws detailing exactly what a hunter can or cannot do are everywhere.

Now the Ted Nugents of the world aside, most believe this to be a good thing. Safety is a concern, as well as the environment. Most do not want to hunt any animal to extinction.

Such concerns should be addressed in the foraging/gathering world. The only reason that I can see that it hasn't is that there are a far fewer amount of foragers out there than there are hunters.

But what I really took away from this article is that, at least in the United States, it seems as if that those like Iso Rabin make the rest of us look at them like they're a tad...off. Foraging is a novelty, so much so that it gets an article in a local alt-weekly. We're clearly past the tipping point when it comes to relying on institutions for our food.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Mithrandir [Visitor] Email · http://www.soundandfury.info/
Not wanting to hunt various species to extinction is a recent fad. The appearance of humans in any given part of the world has always coincided with massive decreases in the population of large animals.

It's also controversial. In the few places on Earth where modern humans live near large, wild mammals, there's always someone advocating the animals' destruction for their convenience or safety.

In and around Anchorage, AK, people get mauled by grizzly bears several times a year. I don't know what the moose-related fatality rate is, but it's probably higher than you'd think.

Ultimately, a crisis occurs: someone's small child gets killed and eaten by a local predator. The ensuing press coverage and general buzz turns the responsible species from animal to evil, and (absent some seriously dedicated conservation efforts) it gets hunted to extinction in the local area. Think of the children.

And that's just the big predators. There's a huge number of people in sparsely populated areas who have gardens and worry about deer eating their flowers or produce. It doesn't take many instances of this to turn the deer from cuteness to nuisance.

So I think it is impossible to overestimate the potential ecological impact of a gathered food fad. Mr. Rabin probably isn't going to go poisoning chipmunks to improve his nut gathering, but if Mr. Rabin creates a market, BigAgra Foraging very well may in the next few years.

Hunting and gathering works very well for small, sparse populations of humans. For six billion humans? No. It does not scale.
PermalinkPermalink 03/26/09 @ 10:43
Comment from: Melissa [Visitor] Email
Look to Sweden. Here you can buy a very wide variety of wild plants and animals legally and the ecosystem here seems fine. Wild mushrooms are foraged by most people and some good foragers sell at local markets. I buy wild reindeer (crappy cuts are 44 SEK a pack, so even students eat them) and berries (wild cloudberries go for 55 a pack, sea buckthorn 100) frozen at the supermarket. You are allowed to forage in any forest you want no matter who owns it.

Complicated laws protect the wild populations, but at the most basic level they have a foraging tradition that keeps them safe that we lack...it's too bad. I never foraged growing up and I only forage for mushrooms here if I'm with people who have done it since they could walk. Good thing there are plenty of wild apples...even idiots can gather those.

One thing that struck me about the article was how uptight the government officials seem. With these people in charge no wonder Americans are afraid of food, even good food. In Sweden we usually lose one person a year to a bad mushroom, but let's compare that to all the people in the U.S. who die from food poisoned items they bought shrink wrapped at the grocery store from pathogens that are unheard of here (raw eggs in Sweden are salmonella-free).
PermalinkPermalink 03/26/09 @ 13:40
Comment from: Shreela [Visitor] Email
He should purchase, or rent, forested land instead of selling stuff he finds on land that's not his. Now if he was feeding himself, or his family, that would be different. But he's looking to make money, so he should purchase or rent the land IMO.
PermalinkPermalink 03/28/09 @ 05:13

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