


Years ago, long before my husband and I moved to New York — before he even was my husband, in fact — we took a trip from where we lived in Massachusetts to New York for my birthday. He had already lived in New York for eight years before moving away and meeting me, so he was very much at home in the city.
As for me, up to that point, I'd lived pretty much all my life within a 20-minute drive from the very hospital in which I was born. I wasn't a hayseed, but I felt more than a little like the storied country mouse, especially compared to my city mouse of a fiancé.
So, on our first night there, when he said, "oh, we should go to La Caridad and get some Cuban-Chinese food," I didn't want to appear as backwater as I felt, so I just smiled and nodded like, yeah, totally, Cuban-Chinese... who doesn't like that?

In 1847, Spanish settlers brought the first Chinese laborers to Cuba and put them work in the sugarcane fields to replace slave labor. After completing an eight-year contract, the Chinese laborers were free to settle permanently in Cuba, and many did — by 1940, Havana's Chinatown was the largest barrio chino in all of Latin America, with 30,000 residents and over 40 blocks of Chinese-owned restaurants and other businesses.
After the Communist revolution in 1959, Chinese and Cubans alike fled Cuba. Many emigrated to the United States — Miami and New York, mostly — and, less so, to the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, and other nearby Latin American countries.
Those who ended up in New York settled mostly in the Upper West Side of Manhattan. Cuban-Chinese restaurants quickly sprang up and flourished there, but as the neighborhood gentrified and new generations looked outside the restaurant business for careers, the restaurants dwindled until only a handful remained — including La Caridad, where I found myself trying to look blasé, like this fusion of cultures was old hat to me.
In truth, I had no idea what to expect. Chinese food I understood, but at that point in my life, the closest I'd come to Cuban food was, well, eating Dominican food. Once. Not that I would have said as much, lest any of the New Yorkers at the surrounding tables overhear (because, I don't know, then they'd come over and mock me for being less cool than they were or something. Insecurities know no logic).
Although it seemed almost bizarre when I walked in, as soon as I was handed a menu, the combination of Cuban and Chinese made a lot more sense when I could see the staple foods common to both: rice, black beans, egg dishes, roast pork, et cetera. Even though it was some six years ago, I still remember I ordered the string beans (as I was vegetarian at the time), some fried rice (which just tickled me to find it was made with yellow rice), and, the only Dominican food I remembered eating before, fried plantains.