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Espresso served cold, not snobby

07/15/08, by Kate Hopkins Email 1193 views • Categories: Coffee, Food Politics

The title of this post comes from McDonalds ad for for their new espresso drinks. It's on a billboard that I drive past, and has been there for the last month or so. I've always thought it odd, but couldn't find the right context to make a proper post out of it.

Thank god for the internet.

We'll get back to McDonalds in a minute, as I want to talk about a minor hubub that was found on a few of the more trafficked sites out there. It deals story about a blogger named Jeff Simmermon and a coffee shop in Arlington, VA called Murky Coffee.

The story goes like this...

Jeff goes into Murky Coffee and orders an iced espresso. The barista behind the counter declines, citing company policy, stating (according to Jeff):

“This is our store policy, to preserve the integrity of the coffee. It’s about the quality of the drink, and diluting the espresso is really not cool with us..."

Jeff, who clearly adheres to the belief that "The customer is always right", makes it known that Murky Coffee can take their policy and stick it. Much immaturity ensues, and right about this point in their story I lost interest. I have enough pseudo-drama in my life that I don't need to invest in somebody else's. Besides, the most interesting point of the conflict had already been established...

In a battle of quality vs. customer service, who should win?

This is a conflict that arises every day in the food world. If it's not iced espresso, it's mixing cola with a 21 year old single malt. If it's not that, it's someone ordering prime rib well done, or not serving wine at sixty three degrees, or adding kraft singles to a cheeseburger.

In the eyes of someone who's passionate about food, there's always a better way to enjoy food. To some, this way of doing something better sometimes borders on the fanatic. Take the example that commenter krinklyfig brought up in the Metafilter post on this topic.

I don't know if any of you watch Kitchen Nightmares with Gordon Ramsay (BBC), but in one episode he was trying to make the point of good ingredients standing on their own. To make his point, he tried to order a single malt scotch with soda from the bartender at the restaurant. The bartender smartly refused, because you don't ruin a good scotch by mixing it with soda. Now, it may piss off the customer, but you're not being a good bartender by letting someone order a $20 scotch and soda.

The question here is, who is right? The customer who wants the Scotch and soda (or the iced espresso, or the burnt steak)? Or the proprietor of the establishment who won't compromise their integrity for the sake of the almighty dollar?

From my point of view, they are both right. This may sound like a cop out, but hear me out.

The customer wants what the customer wants. Conversely, a store may sell whatever they like. If a store (or restaurant, or cafe) does not provide the goods or service that the customer desires, the customer will move on to another location that can provide the service they want.

"But Kate", I can hear some of you saying. "What Jeff was asking for was not an unreasonable request. They had the ingredients on site, they already sell a similar product in the iced americano, why shouldn't have they fulfilled his request?"

The answer is simple. Because they didn't want to. The reasons are their own, and they tried to explain them to Jeff. From his point of view, he didn't care one whit about the quality of the bean. He wanted to consume the drink, not taste it. And while many of us who find this perspective on food gauche, it's the one that's prevalent in American culture. Murky Coffee was never going to meet Jeff's needs. Luckily for Jeff, there are other coffee shops that will.

Now.. back to McDonalds.

Considering all that has been stated above, their ad that states "Espresso served cold, not snobby" provides all sorts of ironic subtext. Some will read it as McDonalds once again missing the point of serving quality food. Others will read as McDonalds way of saying that they are the antithesis of the snobby barista's of the world.

In my eyes, it says that McDonalds is the antithesis of the Murky Coffee's of the world. If you want espresso to consume and not taste, then McDonald's is the place for you.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: ketherian [Member] Email
I do eat at McDonalds occasionally, and I'm pretty sure they're all about the consumption and not necessarily the quality of the food. :)
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 08:02
Comment from: TimmyMac [Visitor] Email · http://www.themcintireconspiracy.com
I read about this yesterday. While I understand that coffee purists take their drink very seriously, and I can stipulate that there are probably ways to serve coffee that enhance or detract from the flavors, I think I would lose my s**t pretty quick if I got a stern, condescending lecture from the person I ordered coffee from.

I mean, setting aside the possibility that maybe I might just like the way espresso over ice tastes, why not try to educate me instead?

It's food, not math. You can't be "wrong."
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 08:47
Comment from: David [Visitor] Email · http://www.davidlebovitz.com
When I worked in the food business and someone wanted something icky, like...say, chocolate sauce on their apple tart, I'd serve it in a pitcher, on the side.

Italians dilute espresso all the time, with ice cream, ice, etc...(and they get the last word on coffee, in my book) but the shop could've just served a glass of ice on the side and let the customer do the dirty work. himself.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 09:37
Comment from: Erin [Visitor] Email · http://theendivechronicles.com/
As a former barista I am a coffee purist. I smiled through requests for watermelon syrup to be added to an espresso and gagged in private. I believed in educating the customer, but only about half of the people listened or cared. Flat out refusing a customers request goes against everything I believe about hospitality, so I would never judge someone because they didn't appreciate the crema or foam so thick it's like pudding.

PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 09:42
Comment from: Jessica [Visitor] Email
I'm going to have to disagree with you that it's about consuming, rather than tasting. For example, I LIKE the way earl grey tea tastes with milk, and I definitely can appreciate the difference between poor quality tea and high quality tea. Just because I add milk to it (which many people frown upon) doesn't mean I'm just "consuming" it. I think the customer is right, and if you want to educate them, fine. But I tell ya, I'm not going back to a coffee shop that thinks it’s "better" than me. You go into food service to provide a service – coffee, or high quality Italian food or whatever. As for McDonald's - if what you want is a McDonald's cheeseburger, nothing else in the world will substitute. A Kobe beef burger will not cut it. Again, it's about the taste. I don't like McD's, and I don't say the food is high quality, but it is a distinctive taste.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 09:56
Comment from: Lettereleven [Visitor] Email
I think there's a separation of church and state that's underlying this argument. One between mass-consumer level and boutique-level offerings. What Murky Coffee did, at its core, is refuse to sell something. That probably goes against the general business model of any store, but they apparently can choose, I suppose, to limit their customers--both what they order, and by proxy, who those people are. A place like McDonalds or, say, Starbucks (where the corporate policy is, literally "whatever the customer asks for"), have opened themselves, purposefully to being mass-produced, chained places that cater to "everyone." They don't have reason to or want to limit who they serve or what they serve. Because there, it's not as much about food (or taste, or convention, or whatever you want to quantify it with) as it is about money.

That said, on a less empirical level, I would have personally found the barista's behavior rude, obnoxiously presumptive and, well, snotty. As someone above said, "It's food, not math. You can't be 'wrong.'"
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 10:04
Comment from: blah [Visitor] Email
I order iced americanos on hot days all the time - basically espesso served in cold water and ice. I find it quite delicious in that form, and I am definitely tasting it, not just consuming it.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 10:15
Comment from: Shreela [Visitor] Email · http://shreela.wordpress.com
One of my uncles married a snobby woman -- it turned out she had a shameful past far away (not of her doing, but still embarrassing to her), so she over-compensated in her new life so she wouldn't be judged again (IANATherapist, but that's what it seems like to me).

She'd always study "finer" things just so she could toss around sayings, or buy smaller affordable designer stuff. And sometimes she'd just make stuff up that was better than how other people did the same thing, just so she could be superior.

If you prefer the way coffee tastes hot or cold, then why do some people think it's the "wrong" or "inferior" way of drinking it? Because they want to be superior, so they act like their preferred way is the "best" way, while sticking their nose in the air. It's like high school cheerleaders all over again!

When I was a young adult, many people drank scotch because it was something elite people did. I wanted to fit in, so I tried some -- it was all I could do not to spit it out in disgust.

They laughed their condescending laugh and told me it was an acquired taste. What? I'm supposed to force myself to drink something nasty over and over until I get used to it just so I can stick my nose in the air too? Bite me!

I secretly laugh at people desperately trying to superior. But sometimes I wonder what's their hidden pain driving this compulsion, then feel sorry for them, at least until they put on another air around me.

A man prefers his coffee iced -- another man prefers his hot, but then puts on some "I'm a snooty snoot" act. Who is he, or you, to judge yourselves better just because you like something prepared differently.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 10:30
Comment from: Gabe Lippmann [Visitor] Email
I agree that they are both right. If the two people in question weren't able to communicate about it without acting like children, that is another issue.

The customer should be treated with respect, but the customer isn't always right. The customer is only right to the extent that it fits with what the shop is willing and capable of doing. If you want to eat your McD's burger nude, you have to go home and do it. Apparently, if you want diluted coffee from Murky, you will have to do it yourself.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 10:58
Comment from: Marissa [Visitor] Email · http://www.malibuisburning.com
I'm torn too. We're taught in the hospitality business never to educate a guest--unless, of course, they ask--but then if they don't ask, how will they ever know? There's only so much valuable food knowledge that can be passed on and retained through families whose parents are dedicated to gastronomy.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 11:03
Comment from: Matthew Kayahara [Visitor] Email · http://everythingfromscratch.blogspot.com
Murky Coffee has a response up here: http://www.murkycoffee.com/2008/07/open-letter-to-jeff-simmermon.html
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 11:41
Comment from: Adam [Visitor] Email · http://splittingtheadam.typepad.com
I'll give you an example of customer-vs-"brand integrity" in a completely different business--automobiles. I work for GM, and I spent fourteen years in the Design organization (and still have plenty of friends there). There are few things as frustrating in this business as seeing a gorgeous looking automobile mucked up by someone's sense of 'taste' that might include wire wheel covers, protruding grille, and a fake convertible roof with gold-plated landau bars. I believe, several years back, a senior Ford designer was quoted as saying they had designed a new Lincoln to make it very difficult to install a padded top (although, as it turns out, not impossible) in order to preserve the integrity of the design. It can get to a point where the customer's desire for individuality can be at the cost of an upscale, desirable brand image, which is why many brands (upscale and otherwise) are spending more time creating the ability for buyers to customize and personalize their vehicles through the factory.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 12:09
Comment from: Michael Natkin [Visitor] Email · http://herbivoracious.com
Re the more general topic, we had a going on at Herbivoracious about whether customers should ask for customizations and whether restaurants should oblige. (Here's the link: http://www.herbivoracious.com/2008/05/on-on-vegetaria.html )

Re iced espresso, I think the mistake here is in thinking that you've ruined a good doppio. They are just two different drinks. I drink double shots every day and am always searching out places that get a great crema. (Vivace baby!!)

And every once in awhile I drink an iced Americano. I'm not looking for the same thing at all. I'm looking for a nice cold drink with some coffee flavor.

PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 12:13
Comment from: maura [Member] Email · http://maurarose.livejournal.com/
but the shop could've just served a glass of ice on the side and let the customer do the dirty work. himself.

I think Simmermon tried that, which is when the barista pulled him aside and said what he was doing was not right. He also accused him of getting ready to put together what's called a "ghetto latte", which is apparently ordering an espresso and loading it up with the free cream at the service stand. This is, as far as I can tell, a major coffee crime.

I get Murky Coffee's purist stance, and they have every right to refuse to serve coffee in a manner that they believe doesn't do the coffee justice. They feel they have not just the right, but the responsibility. The barista could have offered to make an Americano, but he didn't; and he crossed the line when he tried to educate Jeff in the most condescending way possible.

Simmermon has the right to be offended, and heaven knows I have little tolerance for food snobbery; he also has the right not go back (although he did, because it seems he was going to die if he didn't have his coffee fix), and rant about it on-line. He crossed the line with the note he wrote on the tip, and stating on his blog that he wouldn't return to Murky Coffee unless he had a can of gasoline and a pack of matches.

Everyone's right and everyone's wrong. The customer and the barista both behaved like jackasses.

Consumption and taste can go hand-in-hand. I consume french fries because they taste good. Yeah they're bad for me, especially considering the amount I'm capable of eating. But a little consumption is sometimes good for the soul. God made moon pies for a reason.

RE: McDonald's. I doubt I'll ever try their espresso, but I love their commercial. Every time that guy says "We don't have to call movies "films" anymore" while pulling his black turtleneck over his head, I crack up.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 12:19
Comment from: Dany [Visitor] Email
My wife just confirmed to me that I belong to the snob camp. I have to agree as I haven't had a cup of regular coffee in at least 20 years. Anyway, I think food culture works bottom up.

Most people don't care enough about coffee, or bread, or pasta. That's why I have to travel dozens of miles for real bread or fresh pasta.

As long as bread means sliced bread for the majority of people, we are all screwed.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 13:24
Comment from: TimmyMac [Visitor] Email · http://www.themcintireconspiracy.com
Reading the part about the "ghetto latte," I guess my stance is a little softened. I thought the barista was saying it was Not Okay in some grand, existential way. Now I think he was saying it was not okay because it might get him in trouble with his boss, which is a sentiment I can certainly relate to.

PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 13:26
Comment from: PeterMarcus [Visitor] Email · http://fotocuisine.com
Tough dilemma. I mostly agree that it is their store, they can serve food however they want.

However, as a former bartender myself, I would not have made a single-malt and cola, but if someone ordered a single-malt and a cola, then poured the scotch into the soda in front of me, I would have shrugged and moved on. I mean, *I* didn't make it, he did. Same with the coffee shop. They should have given him the joe and a cup of ice and moved onto the next customer.

All IMHO, of course;)
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 14:47
Comment from: Sophia [Visitor] Email
The real problem with the McDonalds ad campaign is their ridiculous (and kind of offensive) TV commercials- because not knowing things (like where Peru is) is clearly a desirable state to be in...
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 16:19
Comment from: Cheryl [Visitor] Email · http://5secondrule.typepad.com
Ditto what Maura said. She hit the nail on the head.

I actually find this whole fiasco fascinating. If I were Simmerman, I'd be pissed as all hell. But I still think Murky Coffee has a right to conduct its business as it sees fit.

Anyone else thinks this controversy is only going to drum up business for them? All press is good press.
PermalinkPermalink 07/15/08 @ 21:17
Comment from: Punctuation Snob [Visitor] Email
They're both right and they're both wrong, I think. The shop has the right to serve coffee the way they want to. The customer has the right to drink what he wants to. Where those conflict, someone needs to compromise. The problem is that the barista's attitude (according to the customer's version, anyway) was condescending and rude. In return, the customer got childish. If they'd both behaved differently, there wouldn't be an interesting and amusing story.

I'm a food snob for some things, and not for others. I'm interested in what makes the differences in terms of quality for various things, so if I were the customer, I'd be interested in learning about why icing espresso is bad. There are times when I'll settle for the quick and easy, though, like the fast food meal when I'm hungry and busy, rather than the higher quality alternative.

I am, however, a punctuation snob, and you've committed two cases of apostrophe abuse in the last two paragraphs. ;)
PermalinkPermalink 07/16/08 @ 15:34
Comment from: Heidi [Visitor] Email
Living in DC, we're all talking about this incident. The fact is, Jeff walked into Murky Coffee, an indy coffee shop, instead of one of the 10 or so Starbucks and Starbucks clones within the vicinity. I'm sure he just walked across the street and got what he wanted. Murky can be food snobs if they darn well please. I've gone to several restaurants where the chef cannot bear to cook a particular cut of meat to more than medium-rare, and if that's not ok with me, I order something else. IMO you're at the discretion of the store and its owners/chefs.
PermalinkPermalink 07/18/08 @ 13:54

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