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Food and Community

06/25/07, by Kate Hopkins Email 3401 views • Categories: Regional Foods

I've been thinking about this post for over a day now, and I'm still not sure just exactly how to word it.

The trip to Asheville was busy, way too short and, most importantly, very enlightening. A city of approximately 75,000 people, and when those in the suburbs and surrounding county areas are considered it ups that to 200,000 plus. And if I remember one fact about the city, it's this:

In the downtown area there is only one franchised restaurant. Most every other eatery in the area (and there's a fair amount of them) is an independently or locally owned operation. Not only are there no McDonald's, Wendy's or KFC's, there's no Gordon Beirsch, Chili's or any other nationally recognized restaurant.

This fact is even more impressive when the fact that Asheville's second largest industry is tourism is taken into account. When the tens of thousands of visitors enter the city and see the vibrant restaurants, cafes and bistros, only one of them has a recognizable brand name.

And as I was taken around through the neighborhoods to talk with various food entrepreneurs and advocates, one thing became very clear to me. A community gets the food culture it deserves.

Those involved in the food in Asheville have worked hard to lessen the influence of big business has had upon their community. And don't be fooled, big food has a strong presence in the area, especially the further away one is from down town. But there is a strong, concerted effort to mitigate their influence.

Whether it's a local non-profit designed encourage local food entrepreneurs, the farm advocate who's working to connect family farmers with new markets, or the restaurateur who proudly proclaims their belief in local and sustainable food products, Asheville is a city where the independent food community, not only thrives, but in many parts of the county is regarded as an equitable alternative to the McDonald's, Safeways, and Conagra's of the world. There are cities with populations much larger than that of Asheville's who don't have this level of integration into their community.

Part of this is certainly due to Asheville's size. When you have less people to feed, it's easier (i.e. cheaper and quicker) to change and adapt the infrastructure in place needed to get food to the people.

But the key component to change the infrastructure is to have a requisite amount of passionate people willing to put in the time and effort to make those changes. The less people involved, the more the current status quo stays in place.

What Asheville has demonstrated to me is that a small city or town doesn't have to be beholden to mega-food corporations any more than cities like New York, San Francisco, or even Seattle have to be. But it does take work and passion. Lot's of it.

A community gets the food culture it deserves, whether it's one where Applebee's and Albertson's dominates, or one where local restaurateurs work with local farmers and consumers spend their money in a way that ensures that their dollars are re-invested in their community. Asheville has clearly chosen where it wants fits in this spectrum.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Kellie [Visitor] Email · http://sortingthoughts.us
Please, share which Asheville this is. I would love to visit!

PermalinkPermalink 06/25/07 @ 15:38
Comment from: Sean [Visitor] Email · http://hedonia.seantimberlake.com
Wow. Considering the many, many trips to Kentucky, which is not so very far physically nor culturally from North Carolina, this is astonishing. Most of Kentucky there is nothing other than franchised restaurants, and every imaginable permutation of them. I remarked to my partner one trip that these people don't know what good food is, because they have never had it. They are at a point where generationally there has been nothing other than crap fast food. It alarms and scares me.
PermalinkPermalink 06/25/07 @ 16:41
Comment from: E to the M [Visitor] Email · http://emilysaid.blogspot.com
I feel like we (Burlington, VT) are like that too. The Church St Market Place (downtown) has a McDonalds, hidden on a side street, and more recently, a Papa John's on the fringe of downtown, but that's it. Considering that there are a couple of resaurants on every block, that's impressive. I never really considered it before reading your post but your words have opened my eyes. I think it's one of the reasons I love it here so much.
On a related note, I know a few people who have moved from here to Asheville because they said it felt like home with warmer winters. :)
PermalinkPermalink 06/25/07 @ 17:24
Comment from: meghan [Visitor] Email
Asheville is located in Western North Carolina. You can find out more at exploreasheville.com.
PermalinkPermalink 06/25/07 @ 17:56
Comment from: Lydia [Visitor] Email · http://www.theperfectpantry.com
Having just been to Asheville for the first time, I absolutely agree that the commitment to small, locally owned business (not just restaurants) gives Asheville a special quality. We were impressed with the variety and level of sophistication of the food, and the joy with which it was presented.
PermalinkPermalink 06/25/07 @ 19:58
Comment from: Janet [Visitor] Email · http://foodperson.com
Sounds like Lawrence, Kansas, too. I know it's hard for coastal denizens to believe, but it's true. Check out visitlawrence.com or downtownlawrence.com.
PermalinkPermalink 06/25/07 @ 20:52
Comment from: Scott [Visitor] Email · http://www.spiritualtramp.com
Asheville is great. Now if land weren't so darn expensive there.

I agree wholeheartedly with what you're saying. Our downtown area in Winston Salem has quite a few great local restaurants thanks to a revitalization effort that's beginning to pay off. We have more than our share off chains too mind you, but the downtown area is awesome.
PermalinkPermalink 06/26/07 @ 08:19
Comment from: George [Visitor] Email
Kate...I agree with your observations of Asheville and certainly other fine American cities fall into this same category.

I would say that the term "food culture it desires" is perhaps better and more acurate than the "food culture it deserves". Saying a city "deserves" a certain food culture is saying that that culture is somehow less than others. It's saying that the culture is low-brow and undesireable. It's saying that no right minded person would want that culture. This is simply not always true.

While I think we all agree that fast food is not haute cuisine, it does have it's place and some areas, either through education, economics or some other factor, choose this culture. Let's not quickly and falsely give victim status to these peoples for their choices, good or bad. I don't think it's my place to say they deserve it as though it's a form of punishment.
PermalinkPermalink 06/26/07 @ 10:35
Comment from: Marci Eversole [Visitor] Email · http://www.escapadeproductions.com
I just got turned onto this great blog....and I am headed to Asheville Thursday.....amazing....anyone have any good restaurant suggestions.

I love Asheville, I have been there many times...my favorite place in town is Chocolate Fetish!
PermalinkPermalink 06/26/07 @ 20:18
Comment from: Ed Bruske [Visitor] Email · http://www.theslowcook.blogspot.com/
Only one thing missing in this post: How did they do it?
PermalinkPermalink 06/27/07 @ 03:26
Comment from: Fatemeh [Visitor] Email · http://www.gastronomie-sf.com
Kate -

We just got back from Asheville, and I'm working on my post as well. One thing that amazes me even more is that most of the city is SO young (well under 30, I'd say).

Which means that these YOUNG chefs and farmers and entrepreneurs are driving these changes, and this food culture.
PermalinkPermalink 07/02/07 @ 09:37
Comment from: Sarah in DC [Visitor] Email · http://advancingtheplot.blogspot.com/
I am headed to Asheville next week for vacation and I am really excited about it. I have heard nothing but glowing reports. Can you recommend some reasonably priced restaurants? Coming from Washington, DC, which is a great food city (I am so spoiled), I really appreciate small, well run restaurants that make good, interesting, exotic, and often cheap, food.
PermalinkPermalink 08/01/07 @ 06:23

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