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Profit Margins and Culinary Geniuses

06/20/07, by Kate Hopkins Email 2698 views • Categories: Restaurants

I'm not sure how to broach this subject, because I'm not sure if it's bloody obvious or too "inside baseball" to resonate with readers. But it's been nagging at me ever since reading both the ABC News piece about "Teh Evil Food Blogz" and the Batali follow up a couple of days later.

I'm not here to defend food blogs. Either you like them or not, and I'm not here to sway you to like them. Yes there are crappy food blogs, and my list of crappy food blogs will probably not be the same as your list.

No, what I want to talk about is this overall sense that only a select few can adequately discuss food, and only a select few of that select few could ever appreciate the artistry of a chef or cuisine.

What utter and complete nonsense.

Because while superstar chefs have become the de facto spokespeople for "quality" meals, let me take a moment of your time to lift up the rock and show you a bit of what I've seen over the past few years.

Let's get one thing straight here. Restaurants are in the business to make money. Period. Any chef who tells you otherwise is likely not financially invested in their restaurant.

To make money, a restaurateur will do anything to get people into those chairs. No, wait, scratch that. A restaurateur will likely hire someone else, under the guise of a publicist, to do anything to get people into those chairs.

That publicist will then turn around and recommend to the chefs of these places to do anything to get their name out - their names, in essence, have become brand names. Batali, Lagasse, Ramsay, Flay are all names recognizable to anyone with even a passing interest in food. Keller, Mayer, Achatz are also recognizable names, but probably on a lesser scale. You can thank Food TV for that.

Any publicist worth their salt will do anything to promote the brand...er...chef that has hired them. Whether it's lending their name to Burger King, writing a cookbook for the NASCAR set, or even sending out a press release on how the chef consulted on a big time Hollywood movie.

I willing to bet that every one of those decisions listed above (as well as countless others) were made, not with the idea of food, but the idea of promotion. And the two are NOT the same. The one thing that many chefs love more than food are their names and faces on television, in the magazines or mentioned in the newspapers.

I'm not saying that promotion is a bad thing. But please don't tell me how disappointed a chef is when others state their less that stellar opinion about their food, when the chef so clearly had no problem in putting themselves in the limelight. When the food, restaurants, and chefs are hyped, and the chef and their staff can't live up to said hype, is it the fault of the consumers or the fault of the people who painted the chef as a culinary genius?

Restaurants are not an idyllic refuge of artistry. They serve food, hopefully good food and hopefully for a profit. Anyone who argues otherwise wants you to pay forty dollars for a plate of seared scallops, a dollop of potatoes with balsamic reduction and the pleasure of eating in midtown Manhattan.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Dan [Visitor] Email · http://www.saltshaker.net
It depends on what you mean by "review" in regard to a restaurant. Yes, a paid journalist is bound, or ought to be, by certain ethics and standards - including things like visiting a restaurant more than once, doing it relatively anonymously, not accepting freebies, acknowledging any conflicts of interest, etc. Bloggers, unpaid as most of them are, don't generally profess to pass a professional judgment on a restaurant that's intended the same way a review is - most of us simply report on our experience at a place, sometimes only visiting it once, sometimes multiple times, and hopefully pointing out the differences. Most of us write for our own pleasure and that of friends, family, and eventually other readers, in essence, an online diary. Ethics, yes, I agree - fact checking - it depends what we're talking about - yes if reporting a rumor, but if we're just reporting on a personal experience or observation, what's to check? And to have other bloggers providing checks and balances against each other - doesn't that defeat what blogging is all about? Sure, comments on a post provide some of that - but I don't feel that we're holding ourselves out to be sources of objective news. That's something that a reviewer shouldn't be doing (though, for example, Frank Bruni at the NY Times now has his blog where he does exactly that - sometimes he whips off statements with little or nothing to back them up, and then later retracts them, because it's his blog, not his published and paid for column.

In terms of qualifications, it's hard to say. I find Mario Batali's, and some of the other chefs in recent rants, statements humorous, given that I know the man personally, and he regularly has made similar observations about the lack of qualifications of professional reviewers - let's face it, many of them have little or no food background, and are hired for their writing ability with some sort of view that "they'll figure out what food and restaurants are all about". Most decent food bloggers come from the other side of that equation - passionate and knowledgeable about food, and sometimes with little past writing ability - and that's the part they learn to develop.

When it comes down to it, Kate is dead-on. Chefs, and restaurants are not some sacrosanct refuge of artistry, or temples of gastronomy - most are simply providing a meal, even if the chefs have a higher opinion of themselves than that.
PermalinkPermalink 06/20/07 @ 14:54
Comment from: haddock [Visitor] Email · http://knifesedge.typepad.com
I'll weigh in here with this. Yes, restaurants are in business to make money; and yes, criticism stings. You could make the same critique about rock stars, actors, etc.

Beyond a love of food and love of craft, most cooks start out wanting to make people happy. Many end up being misanthropes but that's another story. I think it takes a somewhat damaged individual to seek the limelight, and a profoundly damaged one to seek it with the gusto of a Keller or a Batali.

And when damaged individual meets person who doesn't like what they do, it hurts. As Debbie Harry said about the next time around, "I'll take the money, you can have the fame."
PermalinkPermalink 06/20/07 @ 23:00
Comment from: gwyneth [Visitor] Email
it's pretty obvious that this is exactly the same screeching we hear from the anointed pundits of the mainstream press, who seem to think that the fact that they're employed by one or another major commercial/media entity somehow specially authorizes their opinion, and whose offended sense of entitlement is spilling out all over the political scene right now.

food blogs are where it's at, just like political blogs, scifi blogs, feminist blogs, etc. the authority of speech derives from the quality of its content, not from its provenance.
PermalinkPermalink 06/21/07 @ 08:02
Comment from: Barbara [Visitor] Email · http://www.tigersandstrawberries.com
As a former journalist, I write my blog like a journalist. In other words, I do extensive fact checking, research, and don't take freebies.

I also don't write restaurant reviews, because, well, frankly, I don't care. It isn't just because I live in Appalachian Ohio where we don't exactly have a restaurant scene like the ones in large cities. Even if I lived in big cities, I probably would write very few restaurant reviews.

It is that I think that the overinflated views of these restaurants and chefs that everyone else seems to have are just that--overinflated. I have eaten at plenty of great restaurants, many of them run by famous chefs.

And yes, some of those meals approached poetry and art.

But many of them, frankly, did not.

And that is the rub. Some "great" chefs' restaurants are just not so great as all that. They are not necessarily worth the price and the hype and the hoopla.

But that isn't the stuff I want to write about, so I don't. I am more interested in health issues, ethics, food production, culture as expressed in food, and learning and teaching good cooking techniques to want to bother writing about a bunch of overpriced, overhyped restaurants somewhere.

There are plenty of other writers stepping up to the plate to do that.
PermalinkPermalink 06/21/07 @ 11:27
Comment from: Steamy Kitchen [Visitor] Email · http://www.steamykitchen.com
I can't believe all this cry-baby bullshit that I've been reading lately. First off, we as diners pay a lot of money to dine at restaurants. Shouldn't we have the right to gripe about a bad experience?

Delicious is subjective. You can't force me to like Batali's pizza. So what if I don't like it? I paid my bill, so whats the big deal?

Technology has just made online blogging a convenient vehicle. In 5 years, what's the next communications vehicle?

You can't control the evolution of technology. Its time for the big bad chefs to suck it up and evolve with the times.

Its absurd to call for regular people writing on their personal blog to take on being a journalist. We're not being paid to write. Its an online diary.
PermalinkPermalink 06/21/07 @ 19:25
Comment from: Vanessa [Visitor] Email · http://vanesscipes.com
Shouldn't food blog readers be given more credit?
I'd like to think that if we're smart enough to search technorati for "restaurant reviews Babbo" we're smart enough to grasp the angle from which a review is written. But maybe that's just expecting to darn much from people who care enough to shell out a benjamin for a meal.
PermalinkPermalink 06/24/07 @ 17:30

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