Also purchase at:

Indie Bound
Barnes & Noble
Borders

Poll

Would you support a soda tax if the revenue went to improving our health care system?

View Results

P.S. Thanks for the blog post idea, too, Other Kate.

05/20/07 @ 09:15:09 am, by Kristen Email 5008 views • Categories: Coffee

I have a friend named Kate — not our Accidental Hedonist Kate; another Kate. This Kate works for Miette Pâtisserie & Confiserie in San Francisco, making three different kinds of caramels for them, and when she's not doing that, she's slinging coffee over at Blue Bottle Coffee Company, which is where our story starts.

Over on her personal blog, Kate recently noted a New York Times article on New Orleans-style coffee concentrate, which mentioned Blue Bottle Coffee and featured Blue Bottle's recipe for making the concentrate. I'd never heard of coffee concentrate before. The article has since slipped behind the Iron Curtain-like Times Select archive, but I was interested enough to print a copy of it — not that I mentioned this to Kate.

Over the course of a week or so, I would toy with the idea of trying the coffee concentrate (and the more I write that the more I think of coffee trying really really hard to pay attention to something), but I kept putting it off.

Then, just this past Thursday, my husband brought a package in with the mail — and it smelled good. "Blue Bottle Coffee?" he asked, reading the shipping label. "Did you order something?" I replied with an uncharacteristic "Gimme!" and ripped the package open without answering him.

And there it was:

package contents

Blue Bottle's New Orleans coffee concentrate kit, including a pound of coffee beans, a sachet of chicory, and instructions — as well as a note from Kate. How she knew I was interested in this, I'll never know.

After writing her a quick thanks, I dashed off to make the coffee; which is really quite simple.

First, grind the coffee coarsely. The directions recommended a percolator grind; I used my small grinder and just tried to make it come close. Then, add ten cups of water to the pound of coffee (plus the chicory) and let it steep 8-12 hours. It looks like... well, like this:

whole lotta coffee

(I know it looks all flashed out, but I needed the camera flash to penetrate this inky coffee bean slurry.)

I went to bed. It steeped. I got up the next morning and strained the coffee; first through a sieve, and then though a fine mesh strainer, and unsurprisingly, I made a hell of a mess.

Now, when I first read the directions, I laughed when they said the coffee concentrate should resemble "used motor oil." The thing is, it really does.

the black hole of coffee! no light can escape it!

At this point, I admit, I had some doubts. I tucked it into the fridge to cool off, made some simple syrup to add to it later, and then went about my day.

Like clockwork, around 3:00 in the afternoon, my ability to parent and/or fulfill my duties as a housewife begins to wane and it becomes coffee hour. Some people have a cocktail hour; I have a coffee hour, in which I set my kid up with the entertainment of her choice and then sit and drink coffee in peace, often staring blankly into space until I am fully revived by the caffeine.

So, this past Friday, despite it being a whopping 53° here in NYC, I poured myself a tall iced coffee, using about a quarter-cup of the concentrate, a cup of milk, and about a tablespoon of simple syrup.

so cold. so coffeeish. so good.

I... don't even think I can accurately describe how good this is.

Let me start by saying this: according to the New York Times article, this concentrate "will keep in the refrigerator for up to two weeks" but after 48 hours, my husband and I have already gone through half of it.

The coffee flavor is extremely rich and much more complex than I expected, but with utterly none of the bitterness you usually get with iced coffee. And, after that first glass, after I blazed through my afternoon's tasks and then found myself cleaning the bathroom light fixtures, I soon realized it also packs a tremendous caffeine punch. Consider yourself warned.

And, so ends my next-to-last official post as Accidental Hedonist's weekly guest blogger. Next week, I'll be introducing my successor — not that it's the last you'll hear from me, I'm sure.

Until next week...

me.jpg


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: ourman [Visitor] Email · http://www.ourmaningranada.com
No bitterness? I thought bitterness was the point of coffee.

Just moved to Nicaragua where the coffee has just the right level of bitterness. Before that I was in Vietnam for two years where the coffee was almost mocha-like.

Anyway, try this, it's the way the Vietnamese drink it. Coffee over ice with a generous helping of condensed milk. Cafe Sua Da (coffee with milk) in Vietnamese.
PermalinkPermalink 05/20/07 @ 10:21
Comment from: Jennifer [Visitor] Email · http://www.spaghettiharvest.com
OH. MY.

That resembles a vietnamese coffee, only much better.

I think I will have to try that trick with my coffee press (modified of course). I just realized that my sudden need for sleep at 3pm may be a cry for caffine.
PermalinkPermalink 05/20/07 @ 10:26
Comment from: Kate [Visitor] Email · http://www.kateadelle.com
Ok, how is this for psychic: I came thisclose to suggesting that you write about iced coffee in your Accidental Hedonist post this week since you were taking suggestions, but then I didn't because I thought maybe it was just too selfish.

This post made my day.
PermalinkPermalink 05/20/07 @ 12:36
Comment from: Kristen [Member] Email · http://www.gezellig-girl.com
Ha! Awesome!
PermalinkPermalink 05/20/07 @ 12:41
Comment from: Doris [Visitor] Email
For those who might be so inclined, look for a Coffee Toddy at your local gourmet store. It includes a carafe, a nifty plastic holder for the coffee while it's steeping, a plug which you remove form the nifty plastic thing when you want to filter your new batch of concentrate, and filters which make doing this waay easier. It does make wonderful coffee...it would even make 'ordinary' coffee superb.
PermalinkPermalink 05/20/07 @ 14:10
Comment from: Kristen [Member] Email · http://www.gezellig-girl.com
Actually, the owner of Blue Bottle Coffee was quoted in the New York Times, specifically advising against the Coffee Toddy.
"The filter is the problem, in my opinion," said James Freeman, the owner of Blue Bottle, explaining why he’s outgrown the Toddy. "All the delightful complexities are gone. I don’t get any of the velvety plumpness."


PermalinkPermalink 05/20/07 @ 15:01
Comment from: Ember [Visitor] Email · http://www.embercase.com/wpembercase
I've become a big fan of "cold brewed". But I do things the hard way - espresso grind. I have to triple filter to get all the sediment out (strainer / french press / french press with a coffee filter) but the concentrate is just that much stronger for the finer grind.

The acid content is tremendously lower. I had been unable to drink regular brewed coffee at all for the last year; it just wasn't worth hours of upset stomach to get my daily fix. Now I'm loving mornings again :)
PermalinkPermalink 05/20/07 @ 19:08
Comment from: Johanna Dimopoulos [Visitor] Email
Dear Kristen,
In greece, where I live, cold cofee is a must. We currently have two types: the well-known 'frappe' (pronounced on the 'e') and of course the 'freddo'. They are both very very easy and do not require any of this mess you describe.

To make the former (which is made with instant coffee) I suggest you go to wikipedia and read the link, it is a very good one (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greek_frapp%C3%A9_coffee).

For the latter, well:

Use an espresso machine or a mocha and make an espresso with half the water than for a hot one. Add as much sugar as you usually need (I like it without any)and pour over ice. Use a milk frother (aerolatte or similar) and froth very cold milk (UHT milk gives better froth) and add on top. Voila! Takes 5 minutes and tastes really good.

PermalinkPermalink 05/21/07 @ 05:42
Comment from: Angel [Visitor] Email
Yeah thats delicious coffee making.Gourmet coffee at http://www.coffeebreakusa.com adds to online coffee.

PermalinkPermalink 05/22/07 @ 01:38
Comment from: FenTiger [Visitor] Email
I brewed my own batch of concentrate last night, and you're absolutely right about it making "a hell of a mess!"

Unfortunately my daughter used the last of the milk this morning with her cereal, and I was unable to sample my concoction. It smelled incredible though!

On a side note - I'm fascinated by the view from your window! It reminds me of the years I lived in England.
PermalinkPermalink 05/22/07 @ 06:43
Comment from: Kristen [Member] Email · http://www.gezellig-girl.com
Really! Well, my view is actually the Washington Heights neighborhood in Manhattan.
PermalinkPermalink 05/22/07 @ 06:47
Comment from: FenTiger [Visitor] Email
Update: DELICIOUS! Both my husband and daughter agreed it tasted better than the iced brew from our locally owned coffee place. It's even better with a splash of Kaluah (sp?) topped with whipped cream - although I'm not sure if it counts as coffee or desesrt at that point. :)

Kristen - your view brings to mind walking through parts of London and Norwich, it's very similar. I live in a rural area of southern Georgia now, and the tallest building around is the hospital at four stories! Lots of trees and open spaces here (which is nice), but there's something about bricks and fire escapes...I dunno.

Looking forward to reading more of your posts on your blog.
PermalinkPermalink 05/23/07 @ 10:48
Comment from: emmby [Visitor] Email · http://www.niskala.org
Absolutely fantastic stuff. It can end up a tad gritty for my taste though. If you find it so as well, I recommend either putting the concentrate through a standard coffee filter or letting it sit undisturbed in a tall container overnight and then pouring gingerly. The grit will sink to the bottom leaving only delicious concentrate in its wake.

IMO this preserves the concentrated coffee color and flavor (and caffeine!) without the little floating specks that can end up in your iced coffee otherwise.
PermalinkPermalink 06/23/07 @ 12:24
Comment from: jonathan [Visitor] Email
A few quick comments:

1) you shouldn't have to use sugar / simple syrup. if the roast and beans are good, you'll have enough sweetness from the caramelization in the bean. needing to use sugar means the beans were likely charred or underroasted for this brew method. for online beans, i'd recommend trying the daterra from doubleff.com ; for nyc available beans, most @ gimme coffee or oslo in williamsburg will work great.

2) i prefer a 14-18 hour steep . i've gone as many as 24 without it getting bitter or too caffeinated. after the initial drain , i add 3 cups of water to the grounds and let them soak for another 2hours. that gets another 2 cups of concentrate. having 8 cups of concentrate vs 6 is just the greatest thing on eath.

3) remember to dilute to taste. every batch is different - sometimes the right ration is 1;1, other times it can be 4:1
PermalinkPermalink 08/09/07 @ 11:41
Comment from: Nola Man [Visitor]
I order this stuff online...it is freash and more concentrated than I can make myself...no bitterness either...

www.coolbrew.com
PermalinkPermalink 08/20/07 @ 01:58
Comment from: ilikecoffee [Visitor] · http://www.poker-mastery.com
poker mastery
PermalinkPermalink 09/25/08 @ 23:00
Comment from: replica rolex [Visitor] Email · http://www.bluefakes.com
www.bluefakes.com
www.fakereviews.com
www.ontimefakes.com
PermalinkPermalink 03/26/09 @ 11:55

Leave a comment:

Your email address will not be displayed on this site.
Your URL will be displayed.

Allowed XHTML tags: <p, ul, ol, li, dl, dt, dd, address, blockquote, ins, del, span, bdo, br, em, strong, dfn, code, samp, kdb, var, cite, abbr, acronym, q, sub, sup, tt, i, b, big, small>
(Line breaks become <br />)
(Set cookies for name, email and url)
(Allow users to contact you through a message form (your email will NOT be displayed.))
What color is a red balloon?