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How a Plate of Plantains Made Me Move to New York

01/21/07 @ 08:05:22 am, by Kristen Email 3086 views • Categories: New York, NY - USA

Years ago, long before my husband and I moved to New York — before he even was my husband, in fact — we took a trip from where we lived in Massachusetts to New York for my birthday. He had already lived in New York for eight years before moving away and meeting me, so he was very much at home in the city.


As for me, up to that point, I'd lived pretty much all my life within a 20-minute drive from the very hospital in which I was born. I wasn't a hayseed, but I felt more than a little like the storied country mouse, especially compared to my city mouse of a fiancé.

So, on our first night there, when he said, "oh, we should go to La Caridad and get some Cuban-Chinese food," I didn't want to appear as backwater as I felt, so I just smiled and nodded like, yeah, totally, Cuban-Chinese... who doesn't like that?


Photo © Plate of the Day




Before I get to the food, a brief history of the Chinese in Cuba, courtesy of the internet and the paper placemats La Caridad used to have:

[More:]

In 1847, Spanish settlers brought the first Chinese laborers to Cuba and put them work in the sugarcane fields to replace slave labor. After completing an eight-year contract, the Chinese laborers were free to settle permanently in Cuba, and many did — by 1940, Havana's Chinatown was the largest barrio chino in all of Latin America, with 30,000 residents and over 40 blocks of Chinese-owned restaurants and other businesses.

After the Communist revolution in 1959, Chinese and Cubans alike fled Cuba. Many emigrated to the United States — Miami and New York, mostly — and, less so, to the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, and other nearby Latin American countries.


Those who ended up in New York settled mostly in the Upper West Side of Manhattan. Cuban-Chinese restaurants quickly sprang up and flourished there, but as the neighborhood gentrified and new generations looked outside the restaurant business for careers, the restaurants dwindled until only a handful remained — including La Caridad, where I found myself trying to look blasé, like this fusion of cultures was old hat to me.

In truth, I had no idea what to expect. Chinese food I understood, but at that point in my life, the closest I'd come to Cuban food was, well, eating Dominican food. Once. Not that I would have said as much, lest any of the New Yorkers at the surrounding tables overhear (because, I don't know, then they'd come over and mock me for being less cool than they were or something. Insecurities know no logic).


Although it seemed almost bizarre when I walked in, as soon as I was handed a menu, the combination of Cuban and Chinese made a lot more sense when I could see the staple foods common to both: rice, black beans, egg dishes, roast pork, et cetera. Even though it was some six years ago, I still remember I ordered the string beans (as I was vegetarian at the time), some fried rice (which just tickled me to find it was made with yellow rice), and, the only Dominican food I remembered eating before, fried plantains.


Photo © Plate of the Day




(Man. Just look at those. Sweet. Salty. Fried. That's my brain's pleasure center trifecta, served up on a plate.)


We stuffed ourselves, paid the bill, and got a cup of their (incredibly good) cafe con leche to drink on the walk back to our hotel — and although I didn't dash out into the street and shout, "Yes! I have found my true home!" or anything, something in me shifted. There was something about this meal that had just thrilled me. It was foreign without being intimidating, it tasted fantastic (and was cheap besides), it had a history behind it that I found fascinating... and over the next couple of months, I started to think, if this is what living in New York is like, maybe... I could actually move to New York and live here.


As much as I'd like to end this post with a cheery And that's just what we did! The end! in truth, it took a lot longer than that — including, at one point, actually moving to Brooklyn, then moving to Florida within a year — until we finally moved back this past summer, more than five years after this trip.


But over those five years, my husband and I (and later, our kid) came to the city whenever we could, and we'd trek up to La Caridad, always order some plantains, and think, oh yeah, I'd almost forgotten, this is why we still want to move to New York.

As always, to read more about my life in New York, visit my blog at gezellig-girl.com.

All photos: © Plate of the Day


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Marce [Visitor] · http://pipinthecity.blogspot.com
I just loved this entry, isn´t it amazing how some food seem to have some sort of magical power of making us feel better, tie us to a certain place and time, mean much more than just what is in front of us (in this case, an exciting environment full of new experiences)?
I can certainly relate to feeling a bit country sometimes, but there´s no shame in that, it´s good to still have many things to discover!
PermalinkPermalink 01/21/07 @ 11:20
Comment from: Rachel [Visitor] · http://rachelsbite.blogspot.com
a grouper sandwich confirmed my decision to move to Tampa! you can't be fresh fish year-round.
PermalinkPermalink 01/21/07 @ 11:27
Comment from: kostia [Visitor] · http://www.kostia.net
I second the grouper sandwich! I left the Tampa Bay area after four years, but my parents have since retired there, and the grouper sandwich at the dive on the beach is still one of our Christmas traditions. We had Christmas with my brother's in-laws in California this year, and I have been craving fried grouper since November, with no end in sight.
PermalinkPermalink 01/21/07 @ 18:16
Comment from: zenzele [Visitor]
I'm homesick now! I used to love that place; I'll have to make a special trip there, during my next excursion to the city.
PermalinkPermalink 01/21/07 @ 19:11
Comment from: Miss T [Visitor] · http://mysteryhouse.typepad.com
Fried plantains are a perfectly good reason to move anywhere!
PermalinkPermalink 01/22/07 @ 07:42
Comment from: Karl Seidel [Visitor] Email · http://www.freshroastdaily.com
I grew up a few blocks away from La Caridad - when it was still a tiny countertop joint with about 6 seats (mostly occupied by cabbies as I remember). It's grown over the years and now down-sized a bit in the 30 years it has been in the 'hood. What's wonderful is most of the same faces are still there serving this memorable cuisine. Last time I was in NY with my gal I proposed marriage to her over a plate of fried rice and squid. Fortunately she accepted otherwise it wouldn't be a very good story! If you like La Caridad you might also want to try Flor de Mayo on 72nd between B'way & Amsterdam - it used to be on the ground floor of my building on Broadway and 82nd Street - doesn't get any more convenient than that! And, of course if you're in the neighborhood, you should visit H & H Bagels and Zabars.
PermalinkPermalink 07/14/07 @ 14:31

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