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Alan Richman steps in it

11/06/06 @ 07:40:30 am, by Kate Hopkins Email 806 views • Categories: Food

Food writer Alan Richman takes on New Orleans, and proceeds to insult an entire city. Some choice quotes:

The citizens of New Orleans might not be the most energetic Americans—I believe their morning exercise regimen consists of stumbling out of bars—but they are joyful, expressive eaters.

and

I know we are supposed to salvage what’s left of the city, but what exactly is it that we’re trying to cherish and preserve? I hope it’s not the French Quarter, which has evolved into a illogical mix of characterless housing, elegant antiques stores, and scuzzy bars, a destination for tourists seeking the worst possible experience. The entertainment values are only marginally superior to those of Tijuana, Mexico.

The response to his piece has been vitriolic, with Pim likening Richman to a jackass, Robert, over at Appetites, calling him a penis, and no less than the New Orleans Times-Picayune inferring that applying the label of "journalist" to Richman would only be correct if it's definition included the use of wisecracks, sweeping generalizations and out and out inaccuracies.

I realize that this isn't really food-news worthy per se. But Alan Richman is one of the bigger names in food writing, and it's noteworthy when someone of his stature pens something like this:

During my time in New Orleans, I sought to keep some perspective. For example, when the sommelier at August brought me an incorrect vintage of the wine I’d ordered, I tried not to be too distressed, knowing that somewhere in the Lower Ninth Ward a house was sitting atop a car.

This is quite possibly the worst food writing I've ever seen. It has all of the worst traits of criticism - entitlement, arrogance, and comparing the frustration of receiving the wrong vintage of wine to that of someone who LOST THEIR HOUSE!

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Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Stephanie [Visitor] · http://www.grubreport.com
Thanks for this, Kate -- I've been rather incoherent to express my rage over Richman's piece but you captured it quickly and concisely.
PermalinkPermalink 11/06/06 @ 10:15
Comment from: Ian [Visitor]
Darn right he stepped in it. Infuriating.

At least I know he'll never be interested/brave enough to try and skewer Detroit.
PermalinkPermalink 11/06/06 @ 12:43
Comment from: wineguy [Visitor] · http://sbwineblog.journalspace.com/
That was a truly nauseating piece of "journalism". Perhaps he should take up political commentary next.
PermalinkPermalink 11/07/06 @ 07:46
Comment from: Robert [Visitor] · http://www.appetites.us
Thanks Kate. It's been very good to read the almost universally outraged response to Richman's piece.
PermalinkPermalink 11/07/06 @ 09:31
Comment from: ashley Morris [Visitor] · http://ashleymorris.typepad.com
"Supposedly Creoles can be found in and around New Orleans. I have never met one and suspect they are a fairie folk, like leprechauns, rather than an indigenous race." This after he spoke with Leah Chase.

Smacks of racism, no?
PermalinkPermalink 11/07/06 @ 14:19
Comment from: wpapke [Visitor]
Kate, I truly enjoy your blog when you stick to food but your forays into political and social commentary are just too much. Richman' article was condescending but have you read Cliff Bostock in Atlanta's Creative Loafing? Food writers are editorialists in the same vein as movie and art critics. You may disagree with them but their career is based on subjective and sometimes caustic descriptions. Of course this you rblog and you can say whatever you want but there is sufficient rancor in the world already.

"the French Quarter, ...a ... mix of characterless housing, elegant antiques stores, and scuzzy bars, a destination for tourists seeking the worst possible experience. The entertainment values are only marginally superior to those of Tijuana, Mexico."

It certainly is poor food writing, however, I have only visited New Orleans once and was unable to discern what all the fuss was about. San Francisco is far more charmng. I'll take a trip to Swan Oyster House or any number of San Francisco restaurants, especially in China Town, any day over almost anything in New Orleans. I would tend to agree with Richman's description. Nor is his gratuitous comment about a vintage of wine a comparison. It is codescending but where you get "entitlement" out of that is hard too see.

"The citizens of New Orleans might not be the most energetic Americans—I believe their morning exercise regimen consists of stumbling out of bars—but they are joyful, expressive eaters."

New Orleans has always, at least in the south, a reputation of less than energetic endeavor. Ask a any long term transplant aboutthe difficulties of finding dependabel employess. It ain't easy.


And just how does ""Supposedly Creoles can be found in and around New Orleans. I have never met one and suspect they are a fairie folk, like leprechauns, rather than an indigenous race." This after he spoke with Leah Chase." smack of racism?

You're all taking way too much offense at a silly article.
PermalinkPermalink 11/09/06 @ 09:37

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