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The Food Network and its True Purpose

09/26/06 @ 06:00:00 am, by Kate Hopkins Email 2757 views • Categories: Food

Meeting new people is a chore for me. It’s not that I don’t wish to create new friendships and develop social networks; it’s that I’m so bad at it.

I make this admission, not only to provide you a bit of insight into my own psyche, but to explain why I don’t talk about the Food Network all that much on this site.

At the times when I do find myself at social events, I’ve found myself introduced as a ‘food blogger’, which is only interesting to about 1 tenth of one percent of the people to whom I’ve been introduced . In discussing food blogging, most people gravitate to the word “food” and inevitably ask the following question:

“So, do you watch the Food Network?”

I answer honestly…I don’t.

Cue awkward silence, as the only knot that tied together our conversation has been slowly unraveled. I then imagine my talking partner thinking “what kind of food expert doesn’t watch the Food Network” whilst at the same time my thought go something along the lines of “Doesn’t this person know that the Food Network is more about promoting an unattainable lifestyle than it is about promoting food?”

The conversation then dies a lonely death and each of us goes our separate way.

I blame the Food Network for all of this.

It’s not that I dislike the network. Truth be told, I rarely put forth any time even thinking about the channel. I like Alton Brown well enough, and I had a healthy respect for Sara Moulton, David Rosengarten and even Mario Batali. It wasn’t that they were necessarily entertaining (although most were). Rather, it was because after watching them, I felt as if I learned something. Whether it was learning the molecular composition of honey, or that it’s okay to serve beer with an alarming amount of “gourmet” dishes, I often felt enriched at the end of each respective program..

Once that feeling started going away, the less interested I became in the Food Network. If you followed the history of the network, you can probably figure out when that happened. Bill Buford knows about the Food Network, and spells it out quite plainly in his most recent New Yorker article about the Food Network:

(Judy) Girard became president in 2001. When I met her, the following year, she was fifty-six, with blond hair, a slight build, an easy manner, and nothing to hide; frank but not theatrical, calm to the point of seeming tranquillized, no flash or fast-talking speech about “a vision thing,” which I now suspect was because her job had been so simply defined: make the bottom line work. She wasn’t interested in James Beard Awards or good reviews; the only press that mattered was in the financial pages, because her allegiance was unwaveringly to “her community”—the investors.

It was roughly that time that I started to notice changes in the shows I saw. I was no longer being talked to, I was being talked at. Soft lighting started showing up, as well bagged vegetables and pre-made sauces. The food became sanitized, and the Martha Stewart lifestyle became the focus. The network was no longer about making good food and understanding it, it became about using food to impress other people. Whether it was getting a meal out in 30 minutes, or making the perfect thanksgiving feast, the shows seemed to sell the idea of "having" food knowledge, without actually having any.

Even Buford noted the sanitization:

I found myself taking stock not of what I’d seen during the preceding seventy-two hours but of what I hadn’t. I couldn’t recall very many potatoes with dirt on them, or beets with ragged greens, or carrots with soil in their creases, or pieces of meat remotely reminiscent of the animals they were butchered from—hardly anything, it seemed, from the planet Earth. There were hamburgers and bacon, but scarcely any other red animal tissue except skirt steak, probably, it occurs to me now, because of its two unique qualities: its texture and its name.

Food is not sanitized. Food can be dirty and bloody.

And more to the point, unsanitized, dirty and bloody food does not make for good television.

Let's get straight to the issue here - the majority of American television networks are not designed with entertaining, education, or providing news reports. They are designed to make money. If the Food Network couldn't make money through providing "food education" they had to find another way to do so. There's nothing wrong with that. My own preference was for the former and when they moved away from it, I moved away from them.

I do give the Food Network kudos for at least keeping food in the national discourse. But just as one cannot understand the intricacies and nuances television or movies by reading Entertainment Weekly, one cannot understand the intricacies and nuances of food by watching the Food Network.

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Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Lisa [Visitor]
Kate:

Amen sister! And I say that as someone who has watched the Food Network a good bit. However, as you stated, I rarely learn from watching it. I went to culinary school a few years back and (in those days) would watch Mario Batali or Ming Tsai whenever I could, to add to my education. Those days are past. The only show that I think I might learn from is Sweet Dreams (Gale Gand's), but it's rarely on and NEVER in the evening. Speaking of which, the evening shows are UNBEARABLE!
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 08:24
Comment from: Jack [Visitor] · http://www.ForkandBottle.com
Glad I'm not the only one who hasn't been able to watch the Food Network with any level of interest in years. Thanks for pointing out the exact turning point, too! And only Alton Brown was still entertaining.

It is still strange to me that a network devoted to food had done its best to eliminate programming for people who are the most interested in food. (Top 10%, chopped off!)

Meanwhile, who are these people who can watch Emeril endlessly or yet another program where we learn the glories of the Twinkie, including an exciting(!) visit to the factory!?

PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 08:28
Comment from: Michael [Visitor] · http://thedarkerside.to/rants/
As someone put it once: Food Network is food pr0n.

The sad thing is, Food Network isn't the only one that went to the dogs.

TLC, once an interesting channel is now the Home Renovaton Network, the Discovery Channel is the "Let's build cool guy toys" network.

As you said, it is about making money, and I find myself "pushed" more to public broadcasters like the CBC in Canada or some of the PBS programming which actually has some substance.

But hey, what do you expect when people goppel up books like The Da Vinci Code which, although entertaining, is very light on substance as well?
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 09:00
Comment from: Cris [Visitor] · http://cris.livejournal.com
out of curiosity, do the PBS stations in Seattle carry shows that don't run on the Food Network like America's Test Kitchen or Everyday Food?

I don't make a big effort to catch any cooking shows (I just don't watch a lot of TV at all) but your post makes me wonder if the unsanitized, dirt-under-your-fingernails shows exist in other channels, or if everyone is following fast on the Food Network's heels.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 09:01
Comment from: cybele [Visitor] · http://typetive.com/candyblog
I admit to watching some FoodNet ... unwrapped and Alton Brown. But cooking shows just don't do it to me and I really don't like how everyone is always yelling. (Hey, I like factories ... how many other shows have factories on them?)

They're lifestyle shows, plain and simple. I have a lifestyle, I don't need to watch a show about how to develop one.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 09:06
Comment from: Brian [Visitor] · http://www.urbanbohemian.com
I'm willing to bet that in this blog you're preaching to the choir and I say PREACH ON! I've had that exact same experience when I meet people who know that I'm a foodie and often they're subjected to my mini rant on the state of the Food Network and how I compare it to the evolution of MTV.

I still love a few of the hosts, but it seems that the ones you might actually learn from are getting pushed earlier and earlier. My TiVo is still able to record the shows in the wee morning hours, but when I get home from work it's all about the "food fashion" shows that are probably better suited to the Fine Living channel.

The most ironic is their "Food Network Star" reality show. The contestants think they're going to be prominently displayed on the channel only to find their shows getting 1 season and then pushed back to 10:30am if they're shown at all.

I'll stick to PBS on the weekends for my food shows now.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 09:09
Comment from: Tana [Visitor] · http://www.iheartfarms.com
I couldn't agree more, Kate.

Just this morning, the proprietor of Readerville.com, Karen Templer posted her thoughts: "I just think it's fascinating that there are fewer and fewer shows on the Food Network that are for people who actually enjoy food and cooking. Every show at this point seems to be about how to be in the kitchen for as little time as possible, taking every shortcut the personality can think up. Certainly there's a need and an audience for that -- we all have nights where we just need to get something onto a plate quickly -- but you'd think there'd be some segment of the audience for a network called Food Network that actually loves food, enjoys being in the kitchen, wants to know the non-shortcut ways to do things, an so on. Actual food appreciation. But it seems that audience either doesn't exist or the network isn't interested in programming for it."

The dumbing down of America continues.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 11:36
Comment from: shel [Visitor]
I tend to agree with most people here.
Maybe everyone here should send an email to the network explaining why you no longer watch the network. Negative viewer response is very effective in causing changes on national network stations.
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 12:29
Comment from: thomas [Visitor] · http://www.cuisineazine.com
Where's that horse? Let's beat it!!!!

I agree as well! The Food Network has done a fine job ruining the interest in fine cooking shows from days past. Poor ol Yan Can Cook...

Now it's about watching middle America gorge on ridiculous topics that feed the masses.

Producers don't care about the ones who are people actually educated in the food world, like us. They know we are going to be cynical. It's the people that don't know any better and have a low interest in anything remotely educational that they target with these horrible shows aired on Food Network.

Middle America loves mindless tv and sadly the current state of Food Network is proof of that...

I say if you care anything at all about the food world and want useful information from cooks who care what information gets spread around, read some of the MANY great food blogs out there.

Say no to tv!
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 14:56
Comment from: David L [Visitor] · http://www.davidlebovitz.com
Thanks for hitting the nail on the proverbial head. Yes, people keep asking me about Food Network 'stars', and I only can reply with a blank gaze.

The last time I watched it, someone put a scoop of pure buttercream in a (storebought) ice cream cone...

Folks can say what they want about Martha, though, she has always used real ingredients, and highlighted the cooking techniques & instructions of the recipes she was preparing (and her carrots and potatoes had dirt on 'em.)
PermalinkPermalink 09/26/06 @ 23:22
Comment from: kim [Visitor] · http://www.walkernewyork.com/eats
Maybe I benefitted from watching FN when the chef-led shows were on more, but I actually found the network useful in my cooking education. I find her annoying now, but at first even Rachael Ray had something to offer me; watching her chop vegetables for a half-hour every afternoon made me feel more comfortable when I found a knife in my own hand and did give me some sort of idea about how to approach a bell pepper.

I got zero kitchen training growing up and had not even witnessed someone else cooking. I think a lot of people who talk about food have already grown beyond the FN. I'm not debating the quality of programming now vs. then; I almost never watch now. But at one point the FN gave me something I could use.
PermalinkPermalink 09/27/06 @ 04:23
Comment from: angela [Visitor]
I knew my food network days were over the second I noticed they were matching kitchen decorations to chef outfits, which in turn matched the theme of the food that day. Oh my goodness, what happened.
PermalinkPermalink 09/27/06 @ 05:52
Comment from: Sheryl [Visitor] · http://www.saveyourfork.com
Thank you for this. I can't believe some of the stuff that passes for "cooking" shows these days, and I can't actually sit through most of the celebrity chefs without wanting to hurt something.

I admit to being a sucker for the competition shows - the ones where pastry chefs compete in cake decorating or candy work. And Gordon Ramsay always amuses me, because his little tantrums are hilarious, but that's about the extent of it for me.
PermalinkPermalink 09/27/06 @ 06:45
Comment from: Elaine [Visitor]
I thought I was the only one! When they took Sara Moulton and her real-time show off the air I cancelled my satellite network subscription and left my television on permanent PBS. Wish I could watch CBC, but they must be considered illegal aliens in our border dispute.
PermalinkPermalink 09/27/06 @ 08:31
Comment from: Rachael [Visitor] · http://www.freshcatering.blogspot.com
While I agree with most of that, except I never (personally) think its very gourmet, its more...ladies home journal.

They are trying to appeal to the broadest audience, and the broadest audience doesnt cook. They like to be entertained by people cooking and imagine themselves pulling that off too...ergo the premade stuff (and that nightmare woman and her semi-home-made stuff)...pity, but then again, there are lots of great food shows on Fine Living and PBS, so let them have their audience...

PermalinkPermalink 09/27/06 @ 16:53
Comment from: Linnea [Visitor]
Since I enjoy cooking, everyone assumes I watch The Food Network. I used to, but stopped watching when I stopped learning anything new AND stopped being entertained.

I agree that the programs are no longer aimed at people who enjoy the process of cooking/baking, but rather at trying to 'hook' the non-cooks. I wish they had even a few serious programs. The time I used to spend on their programs is now aimed at food blogs. Lots to learn and entertain there!
PermalinkPermalink 09/28/06 @ 08:19
Comment from: Paisanaa [Visitor]
First of all, a response to Thomas:I am from middle america, and I deeply miss the "old" food network, esp. David Rosengarten. I agree that they don't make shows about food anymore (with the exceptions noted by others here)---they make entertainment shows that happen to feature food. And oddly enough, most of the shows like this feature people who, one way or another, are NOT from the midwest---they're from the northeast.
PermalinkPermalink 10/01/06 @ 07:28
Comment from: Michelle [Visitor]
Hm. I've never ever watched Food Network. Too busy sitting by the mailbox and waiting for my Cook's Illustrated to show up. So I can't even agree with the premise here, due to massive ignorance. But at least I can stop feeling like I'm missing out when, as Linnea commented, "[s]ince I enjoy cooking, everyone assumes I watch The Food Network." I get asked about it often enough that I started to feel like maybe something was wrong with me.

If TFN is as bad as everyone here is saying, though, then I think we should all be frightened to discover such a high rate of "omigod, people totally ask me about TFN when they hear that I cook" in this comments board. Statistically I think the conclusion one must draw is that America believes cooking = TFN.

(I must also say, I have a friend who's pretty hopeless in the kitchen but at least she knows it and she's been working on it lately... I know she watches TFN, which, good for her, but then she gets squicked out when I mention, say, having to pull the lungs out of a whole chicken from my butcher... it all makes sense now!)
PermalinkPermalink 10/03/06 @ 17:55
Comment from: nick s [Visitor]
If you want to watch well-made, challenging food programming, there are, um, ways to get hold of British shows. While the BBC tends to be more conservative, Channel 4 has been leading the way, with 'The F Word' (Gordon Ramsay), 'The View From River Cottage' and 'Jamie's Great Escape'. The latter is a real eye-opener, because it features a celeb-chef trying to reconnect with food and cooking, in ways that frankly wouldn't make it onto an American network.
PermalinkPermalink 10/06/06 @ 12:05
Comment from: bill [Visitor]
I love Alton Brown and he is my main (if not only) draw to the food network.

interesting that as i finished reading your (very well written and balanced) dialogue at the bottom of the screen was an advertisement for Rachel Ray's 30 minute meal. Let's face it, we are all selling info. for $$.
PermalinkPermalink 10/12/06 @ 09:27
Comment from: archaeu [Visitor] Email · http://www.investorconcierge.com
i enjoy cooking a lot and i 'borrow' recipes from tv quite often, but not from all-day-cooking-food-networks. there are some few very passionate cooks that i like. and yes, that's my secret for great food - passion.
PermalinkPermalink 03/24/08 @ 08:39

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