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Chicago and Foie Gras

05/02/06, by Kate Hopkins Email 3753 views • Categories: Restaurants, Food News, Foie Gras

I've gotten several people asking my opinion about the recent Chicago decision to ban Foie Gras It's taken a few days to formulate my thoughts into coherent argument, because I don't think that the point I wish to make is one that is one that's been making the rounds in the various medias.

The primary issue here is not whether the animal advocates wish to ban meats that's been inhumanely gathered. If the animal-rights lobbyists had the true courage of their convictions, they would have been going after the mass-produced poultry farms, or the cattle industry that forces the cows to stand in environments that encourage disease. Heck, they could even have made a case for boiling live losters at the various steak and seafood places that are so prevalent in the Windy City.

Instead, they decided to engage in hyperbole at the highest order.

Veterinarians and animal rights activists have described in graphic detail how geese and ducks suffer while being force-fed to create the enlarged liver delicacy. They’ve made comparisons to the mistreatment of prisoners at Iraq’s Abu Ghraib prison.

That, my friends, is disingenuousness with a capital 'D'. Equating the gavage process with the socio-political and human rights issues surrounding that infamous prison makes having a rational and reasoned debate on this topic near impossible.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.

The reason that the anti foie-gras folks were successful in getting this ban is rather simple to figure out:

  1. The demand for foie gras is loooooow. At the time of the ban, there were between 4 to 12 restaurants in the Chicago area even selling the liver. Most people have never tried it, and most people don't go out of their way to try it.
  2. There's a fair amount of classism surrounding the product. Foie gras has been interpreted as a product for the upper-class, sold at restaurants where most people cannot afford to regularly visit.
  3. Finally, and most importantly - for the mainstream public who are now so separated from the process of how our food is actually collected, harvested or made, videos showing gavage can be shocking and upsetting.

What it boils down to is this (pun intended). Groups of people are determining what citizens can eat, based solely on political point scoring. One has to ask oneself, which is worse - force feeding ducks and geese? Or force feeding a debatable morality to the public at large? Personally, I'm more nauseous from the latter.

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Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Tara C [Member] Email · http://www.dementedkitty.com
So stuffing geese and ducks is okay but square bagels tie you in knots?
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/06 @ 13:26
Comment from: Derrick Schneider [Visitor] · http://www.obsessionwithfood.com
In response to Nick, I'd point out that while geese and ducks do gorge naturally, the resulting liver is nowhere near as fat as a foie gras. If it were, there wouldn't be a need to force-feed the birds.
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/06 @ 13:45
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
So stuffing geese and ducks is okay but square bagels tie you in knots?

Short answer: Yes.

Square bagels takes a pre-existing product and makes it (arguably) worse.

No where in the oodles of Foie gras literature have I seen that gavage produces a bad tasting liver, outside of personal preference.
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/06 @ 14:10
Comment from: Tana [Visitor] · http://smallfarms.typepad.com
Brilliant as usual, Kate.
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/06 @ 14:12
Comment from: Tara C [Member] Email · http://www.dementedkitty.com
What about stuffing geese with square bagels? *raised eyebrow*
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/06 @ 15:40
Comment from: shel [Visitor]
Aren't we all such loving souls that we don't give a sh*t about other beings suffering.
I do agree with Kate about the strange framing of the argument against the practice of force feeding though.
Yes I am the Guilt Master.
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/06 @ 16:00
Comment from: Barbara Fisher [Visitor] · http://www.tigersandstrawberries.com/
But, are the ducks and geese suffering? That is the question, and that question has never truly been answered.

I think that Kate is right--if animal rights activists really wanted to make a dent in animal suffering, they would take on big agribusinesses and factory farms.

For sheer scale of suffering, they have the producers of foie gras beat, hands down.

But, of course, that is too big of a task, isn't it?
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/06 @ 18:37
Comment from: Frank [Visitor] · http://www.foodjammers.com/
I guess the difference between foie gras and agri-business is a question of scale. There is no doubt farmer who slaughters his/her own animals has a different sense of suffering from a wholesale packing plant, or a wholesale club-shopper, for that matter. It's best to know what went into the food on your table whatever it is. An organic broccoli in my town travels over 2000 miles by diesel to reach me-- given the afore-mentioned prisoners in Iraq, it might be more humane to eat local duck livers...
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/06 @ 19:48
Comment from: megnut [Visitor] · http://www.megnut.com
Barbara, there have been very few studies done to determine if the birds suffer during gavage. Jeffrey Steingarten writes about their findings in his recent article about foie gras in Men's Vogue. I haven't found the whole article online but you can read some of it in a post I made about it here: http://www.megnut.com/2006/04/further-information-about-foie-gras-production
I recommend reading the whole article if you can find it.

Kate, I really am glad you raised the classism issue, as I think it's a big part of the success. It's easy for people to feel comfortable banning something that only affects "rich" people. If instead the Alderman banned inhumane factory-farmed chicken and $1 McNuggest disappeared from Chicago, you'd see a lot less support from many of these recently converted animal activists.
PermalinkPermalink 05/03/06 @ 08:45
Comment from: megnut [Visitor] · http://www.megnut.com
Nuts, that link didn't auto convert. Post about Steingarten is here: Further information about foie gras production.
PermalinkPermalink 05/03/06 @ 08:46
Comment from: Barbara Fisher [Visitor] · http://www.tigersandstrawberries.com/
Meg--thank you for that link.

I have issues with PETA and their tactics. And, frankly, with their ethics.

I think that Kate hit the nail on the head when she said that the movement to ban foie gras is classist, and that is the root of its success. PETA activists see it as a stepping stone towards getting more Americans to become vegetarian by getting them to agree with PETA's radical agenda in incremental doses.

It is simple for most Americans to make the emotional knee-jerk reaction that PETA cultivates among its followers and the public, in large part because very little scientific work has been done to determine if the gavage-fed birds suffer or not. But one cannot overlook the fact that most Americans have never eaten foie gras, nor would they be able to afford to, so to them, it is "no skin off my nose."

As Meg pointed out--wait until the McNuggets either disappear or go vastly up in price...and then we will see how much support PETA has among the general public.
PermalinkPermalink 05/03/06 @ 11:30
Comment from: Kevin Horner [Visitor]
Amusing, isn't it... Kate talking about "classism". Being a foodie is as "classist" or "elitist" as one can be.
PermalinkPermalink 05/04/06 @ 04:53
Comment from: Sallly [Visitor] · http://dart1121.blogspot.com
Kevin - Ex-SQUEEZE me! A foodie is "classist" or "elitist"? You, sir, are a fool. I consider myself a foodie, but I'm certainly not an elitist. Far from it. I suggest you stop making sweeping generalizations about groups of people.
PermalinkPermalink 05/04/06 @ 05:24
Comment from: Angry Cook [Visitor] · http://www.foodserviceliberationfront.com
First of all Kevin you are partially right but mostly casue you are wrong and deluded. let me explain to be a foodie and go out to 200 dollar prix fixes is indeed a luxury. But mostly if you can do that several times a week other times it may be something you save up for maybe forsaking other things like Cable TV. But being a foodie may mean you love food and you seek it out in its original forms which can often be found in ehtnic markets and small community enclaves in cities and also on farms and such. When you move farther away from these areas where your choices are limited by corporate supermarkets and everyone buys the same bulk and packs of crap and you decide you need something better you do need to usually spend more to get better food but that is not a classist thing but a by product of the watering down of food culture in america.
PermalinkPermalink 05/04/06 @ 11:53
Comment from: Barry [Visitor] · http://www.mustardmuseum.com
I visited the Sonoma Foie Gras farm in March to see with my own eyes if the ducks suffer from the gavage. They showed no outward signs of distress when their handler inserted the tube down their gullet and poured a measure of grain into them, a process that took about six to eight seconds. The ducks seemed more concerned about the presence of the stranger (me!) than anything else. Did they suffer? I don't think so, but as the owner said, "The ducks aren't talking." We may anthropomorphize the feeding and object to what we would not want to happen to us but I suspect the ducks would not want to have to wear clothes as humans do.
PermalinkPermalink 05/09/06 @ 14:26
Comment from: Marianne [Visitor]
I think all of you are missing the point. We have much larger issues in Chicago. Issues like low literacy rates, crime, etc. It is disgusting to me that the city council spent so much of my tax dollars on banning a food that the majority of people in Chicago don't eat. This is a non-issue in my mind. Why don't they tackle things like graft, gangs, drug crimes, police brutality? If they were actually solving some real problems instead of banning foie gras and fighting over what to do about John Stroger, maybe this would be a valid issue because they could then deal with the minor stuff. We are talking about one or two geese as opposed to millions of human lives. Give me a break.
PermalinkPermalink 08/15/06 @ 09:15
Comment from: Grant [Visitor] · http://bizzzznet.com
Industry groups including CIFOG, and researchers at INRA affirm that forced feeding is not a cruel procedure and even that animals appreciate this treatment.

The EU committee carried out several tests designed to detect pain or distressed by looking at blood hormones and all of them were inconclusive or without any measurable difference to similarly raised animals.
PermalinkPermalink 08/25/06 @ 18:37
Comment from: Mr. Skeptical [Visitor]
I can only think to myself - how would all these people, that supported this ban, feel if they walked into McDonalds, or any other food chain, and couldn't order a hamburger with meat on it anymore? Does anyone honestly think that cows and chickens are treated more humanely than these ducks? If so, wake up and smell the cow pie!

I do not endorse needless cruelty towards animals, but give me a break. This is a ridiculous waste of tax payer money. All this time, money, and effort spent on the issue of banning duck liver while so many other more important issues, facing Chicago and other metropolitan cities, go unaddressed. Now that's cruelty if you ask me.

Can you honestly say the multitudes of homeless in Chicago care about the 'duck liver' ban? Can you honestly say that when your property taxes sky rocket that you're thinking to yourself "Well, at least we got that duck liver thingy off the menu, so now I feel better about the world"? Can you honestly say that when the crime rate sky rockets in your neighborhood (because of a lack of law enforcement) and someone in your family is killed that you are comforted in knowing that at least they can't serve foie gras in the City of Chicago anymore?

Please!!! I think the message ALL citizens of Chicago, and this entire country, need to be sending to our government representatives is that we are not going to tolerate this kind of pointless, useless, criminal waste of our tax dollars when there are so many other "Real' issues that need to be addressed.

There is nothing kind, pretty, painless, or humane about the consumption of one animal by another. Every animal on the planet has their own unique ways of killing (and eating) their food. It's not a pretty site, and can be disturbing to most who have not had to witness it before, but we're all animals and we all have to eat. If people are going to take this kind of "highroad moral" view about duck liver, than they need to examine all the other means by which we humans acquire animal products.

My point? This whole issue demonstrates the hypocracy in our society (and in our government officials) and that is the ultimate cruelty that we are all being force-fed.

PermalinkPermalink 08/27/06 @ 09:41
Comment from: mathias [Visitor]
politicians have better things to do than losing their time on non relevant themes. let the peopople free to choose,facist!
PermalinkPermalink 08/27/06 @ 17:07
Comment from: Stephen [Visitor]
It's good to know that people are still fully willing to skirt the issues and talk themselves right out of having a heart. Do they suffer? Have you watched the footage? Or better yet, the results after the initial feedings? When they are rupturing, can't walk or preen and so on? I suppose they rather enjoy these things, right? Why would you need tests and studies to realize the obvious? Suffering is suffering, and there should be no doubt that these birds suffer greatly in their short miserable lives. I would love if there were no more burgers and nuggets, being vegan is wonderful like that. As for why PETA and other groups aren't taking on larger industries...they are!! Just because they aren't as publis as this does not mean that they don't exist. Was this an easy target? Sure, they have to be strategic afterall. Noone will dispute that you have to use tactics that work and try to get the public on your side when you end up going up against giants like the cattle and agro industry. One question of many, do these geese and ducks deserve lesser treatment or humane consideration than cows, pigs and chickens just because their industry is smaller? I say they all deserve humane treatment! You all miss that point, that innocent creatures are being forced to suffer and endure terrible cruelties all for us. The fact that foie gras is so unecesssary and soley sold as a deicacy adds insult to injury. This isn't a war between PETA or any other groups and yourselves..it's a war on animals from humans...and they lost a long time ago. But it's never to late to right a wrong and save them from future horrors. If it was your cat, dog, child, yourself? Always look at it this way...and have a heart!
PermalinkPermalink 01/17/07 @ 09:32
Comment from: Rizz [Visitor] Email
I am very disappointed to read some of these comments. Say, for the sake of argument, that their throats were teflon-coated. Now put yourself in their place, if you will. Would you be a happy duck? I've seen some of the footage out there and not one of those ducks looks very happy.

Although I may not agree with a lot of PETA's tactics, I have to agree that sometimes it takes shock to get people to react and make real changes in their lifestyles. Some people are indifferent or just downright ignorant (I think the majority fall into the latter group).

For those who argue that this issue is "classist," you're only proving your ignorance. Your logic actually sickens me. You're completely missing the point here. The issue is here is animal cruelty. Whether it's one animal or many. Someone has to speak on their behalf. I did today. I called 25 aldermen/women today on this issue and I intend to call the other 25 tomorrow. For the record, no, I don't have a lot of time on my hands. I have a full-time job and a young daughter. I am a compassionate person who doesn't believe any living being should suffer and if there is anything I can do to stop suffering (human or otherwise) I will do what I can and I encourage all of you to do the same rather than whining about silly, inconsequential things like square bagels and classism. Please, who gives I s**t?
PermalinkPermalink 06/11/07 @ 21:51

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