The Accidental Hedonist's Guide to:




My Book



99 Drams of Whiskey:The Accidental Hedonist's Quest for the Perfect Shot and the History of the Drink


Communication

Poll

Would you support a soda tax if the revenue went to improving our health care system?

View Results

-->

Why did American Coffee suck used to be so horrible?

03/30/06, by Kate Hopkins Email 1697 views • Categories: Food History, Coffee

Yes, I used the past tense in the title of the post as it is now possible to get a decent cup of coffee. Thanks in large part to the fine folks at Peet's coffee in San Francisco (from which Starbucks owes a debt of gratitude), there is a large collection of people who know the differences between roasts as well as the differences of beans.

It didn't used to be this way. Back when I was growing up, I was surrounded by people who thought that Taster's Choice was the bee's knees of coffee. Sure, there were people who bought the 8 o'clock beans from the A&P, but instant coffee was the way to get your morning fix. So why did American coffee path get so far off course?

The answer, if Stewart Lee Allen is to be believed, lies within the U.S. Defense department's love affair with caffeinating their soldiers.

The Government has been feeding coffee to the Armed Forces since 1832, when they replaced the daily rations of rum with daily rations of coffee. Sometime in the middle of the 1800's the army began to develop a "military practical" coffee, one that had to be lightweight, long lasting and easy to ingest. The result? A coffee extract that came in cake form. A soldier only had to break a small piece off of the cake and mix it in a glass of water, hot or cold, or in a pinch, take a piece and stick it in their mouths. Voila...instant coffee circa 1862.

Further changes were made to the product over the following years, including a "military successful" powder that was in operation at the beginning of the 20th century. By World War II, America had "125 field roasting plants and 22 domestic plants" all under contract to provide an American GI a daily ration of 2 ounces of instant, which equates to roughly 6 brewed cups.

From there, Allen writes:

...Instant Coffee did not disappear at the end of WWII. Instead, millions of soldiers and nurses returned with a Proustian association of linking the taste of instant (coffee) with some of their most vivid life experiences. Domestic consumption skyrocketed, and by 1958, one third of America's coffee was instant. The trend continued until the Vietnam War, when veterans tasted only the bitterest of dregs in a mug of Taster's Choice.

The prevalance of Instant was most likely noted by Alfred Peet, who then set upon getting a decent cup of coffee and started the American Coffee revolution.

Technorati Tags: , , ,


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: masked_superstar [Visitor]
American servicemen, more specifically sailors, have been in love with coffee since the birth of the USA. the US Navy was more or less like the Royal Navy till the the Continental Congress declared coffee the national drink of the colonies and aboard U.S. Navy ships, a result of King George III's instituting a tax on tea and retaliation by colonists in the famous Boston Tea Party in 1773. American Sailors promptly switched from tea to coffee.

the reason coffee is called "a cup of Joe" is SECNAV Josephus Daniels. He banned alcohol from all ships, thus making coffee the strongest official drink on board.

the Navy had a coffee roasting plant in Oakland and Brooklyn until 1956
PermalinkPermalink 03/30/06 @ 09:43
Comment from: Kate [Visitor] · http://moon-pie.blogspot.com/
That is FASCINATING.

I love your blog more every day! Thank you.
PermalinkPermalink 03/30/06 @ 16:57
Comment from: Tara C [Member] Email · http://www.dementedkitty.com
Is Starbucks owed a debt of gratitude from Peet's, or is a debt of gratitude owed to Peet's from Starbucks?
PermalinkPermalink 03/31/06 @ 14:01
Comment from: Dr. Biggles [Visitor] · http://www.meathenge.com
Starbucks, I believe started in Seattle and has become the McDonald's version of coffee. The beans are inconsistent, the roasts are probably 30 + days out and can you buy a plain ol' cup of coffee from them? Actually, I'm not convinced Starbucks serves coffee anymore. It's so full of sugar, cineemom, chocolate, dairy products ... grrrrr. They give coffee a bad name.

Peets is local to the SF Bay area and one of our first most excellent introductions in to the fine art of Bean. However, they went public not too many years ago and I find them and their roasts to be gross. It isn't even remotely close to the way it was, not so many moons ago.
My new and consistent love is Blue Bottle Coffee Company. Highly passionate micro roasters that have more college degreed employees than most bio-chemical laboratories.
They don't sell pre-ground coffee and NO BEAN is more than 5 days out of being roasted. Which is about as far as any bean should go. That, right there, is coffee love. Organic coffee bean love.
This is just my taste though, this area has many great places to get a far better cup of coffee than peets or startruckers.

Biggles

Biggles
PermalinkPermalink 03/31/06 @ 14:13
Comment from: Marc [Visitor] · http://marcsala.blogspot.com/
Another reason for the long period of bad coffee in the U.S. is the almighty dollar. During the post-WWII years, the coffee makers were relentless in the pursuit of higher profits through acquisition of cheaper and lower quality beans, and also recommendations to brew weaker coffee. The story is well chronicled in "Uncommon Grounds", by Mark Pendergrast, among other places.

Tara C wrote above " Is Starbucks owed a debt of gratitude from Peet's, or is a debt of gratitude owed to Peet's from Starbucks?" The story is complicated, but since Peets was founded in 1966 and Starbucks in 1971, Peets was there first. Sometime in the 80s, I think, Starbucks actually owned Peets, but then sold it back to the original owners as Starbucks started its major rise. The early history of Starbucks is described in Howard Schultz's book "Pour Your Heart Into It." The first 1/3 of the book is fascinating history and corporate drama (e.g., at several times in the 80s, they were thinking of calling it quits), but the rest is corporate cheerleading. Definitely worth borrowing from the library.

PermalinkPermalink 04/01/06 @ 08:22
Comment from: Flame [Visitor]
"Thanks in large part to...Peet's coffee in San Francisco...there is a large collection of people who know the differences between roasts as well as the differences of beans."
Do you really believe this? Is there no small, independent roastery in your area from which you may acquire truly fresh and carefully roasted beans? Because Peet's, much as Starbuck's, is another corporate giant that has grown to such a proportion that it is not really possible for them to deliver carefully roasted and truly fresh high quality coffee. If this is your reference point for what qualifies as coffee that no longer "sucks", then I will bear that in mind as an indicator of your ability to judge quality and flavor across the board.
PermalinkPermalink 04/03/06 @ 10:54
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
What I believe and what evidence can be offered are two different things. Remember, I'm talking about the mid-1960's, not the quality of their coffee today. The two time periods of American Coffee history not equitable.

Say what you want about Starbucks and Peet's and the taste of their products, and you'll see very little disagreement from me. However, their influence on how coffee is made in America is undeniable. It was them that (re)introduced the barista and the Italian style of coffee making to Americans.



PermalinkPermalink 04/03/06 @ 11:20
Comment from: Ben [Visitor] Email
Starbucks NEVER owned Peet's coffee. The idea for the original Starbucks was born inside of a Peet's in Berkeley. This was the idea Starbucks would only sell fresh beans. The Starbucks founders worked alongside Peet's until Howard took over and turned Starbucks into a latte seller. The two companies still have operating agreements that share proprietary ideas, etc.
PermalinkPermalink 08/11/08 @ 09:57

Leave a comment:

Your email address will not be displayed on this site.
Your URL will be displayed.

Allowed XHTML tags: <p, ul, ol, li, dl, dt, dd, address, blockquote, ins, del, span, bdo, br, em, strong, dfn, code, samp, kdb, var, cite, abbr, acronym, q, sub, sup, tt, i, b, big, small>
(Line breaks become <br />)
(Set cookies for name, email and url)
(Allow users to contact you through a message form (your email will NOT be displayed.))
What color is a red balloon?