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Mexican Restaurants in Seattle

01/19/06, by Kate Hopkins Email 6022 views • Categories: Restaurants

Picture in your mind two Mexican restaurants somewhere in America...Seattle, for example.

Place 1 serves housemade refried beans, tacos, enchiladas and offer both green and red salsas for your corn chips. The food is competently done. but often not remarkably so. Their idea of an entree means that the burritos come with beans and rice. The floors are tidy, but worn from years of foot traffic. The walls are decorated as if someone had decided to go to a Tijuana garage sale at the last minute and had only twenty dollars to spend. The cost for a dinner at this place? Seven dollars...nine, if you include a tip.

Place 2 also sells tacos, enchiladas and burritos, but dresses them up a bit. Instead of shredded beef tacos, they sell carne asade tacos. Names like Habenero enchiladas and Chipotle smoked Prawns dot the menu. Entrees are sold with a side of black beans and rice. The restaurant itself is presented in soft light, and candles pepper the space like a Roman Catholic Church on Lent. A fireplace is prominent in the center of the room. The walls are a soft wood paneling, and the skulls of several bulls can be found, giving the place the earth

The price for a dinner at the second place? Seventeen dollars on average, including tip.

If someone were to ask me which place I would prefer, I'd have say the first, for reasons I can't quite put my fingers on.

Part of it is the fact that Mexican food as we Americans know it, is so blessedly effortless. My favorite place for Mexican in Seattle is a little place called El Puerco Lloron, and the food is simply marvelous. You order one of ten dishes from the board, pick a drink from their choices of beers and sodas and then you have a seat at a card table on folding chairs that appear to have been last used a church social. The meat (mostly pork) that comes with what ever dish you have chosen is so moist that it falls apart in your mouth without the aid of your teeth. Their pico de gallo sings upon the tongue. With a bottle of cold beer, this meal is near perfection. That's all that is really needed.

Places like those similar to the second restaurant mentioned above try to impress with atmosphere, yet seemingly have done nothing in the way of proving why one should pay twelve dollars for tacos. They have a fully stocked bar, over 50 beers to choose from, several tequilas and yet have added nothing food-wise beyond what I could get at El Puerco Lloron. There's no mole, no pozole, not even an arroz con pollo upon the menu.

I know that perhaps my expectations are too high. This is Seattle after all, not San Diego, or Albuquerque. There are also many fine upscale Mexican Restaurants in the area that either offer more than burritos, enchiladas and tacos, or bring something additional to these standard recipes.

What we have is a new "Kate's Law". Let's call it Kate's Law of the Proportional Cost of Burritos. This law states that the more money spent on a burrito, the higher probability of disappointment in the dish. This law can be applied to many Mexican Standards, including enchiladas, tacos, etc. etc.

You folks can have your Fifteen dollar Enchiladas. I'll stick to the ones in the four to eight dollar range.

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Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Abby [Visitor]
If you're ever in Austin, try Fonda San Miguel. Their food changed the way I used to think about Mexican food. A really wonderful restaurant.
PermalinkPermalink 01/19/06 @ 09:48
Comment from: haddock [Visitor] · http://knifesedge.typedpad.com
As always an interesting post. While I am a fan of dive eateries all over the place I do find a bit of racism creeps into many discussions about "ethnic" restaurants of all types.

If there is nothing different about the food or service, obviously the first is preferable. Is the second buying quality ingredients? Where do both of them buy their pork?

The costs of running a restaurant are the same for Mexicans, Thai, Indians, and Americans. Why is it the norm for the first three groups to be expected to deliver amazing, authentic food at a bargain prices while if an American restaurant is in the $4-8 entree range you're either in Denny's or the independent equivalent?
PermalinkPermalink 01/19/06 @ 10:02
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
Why is it the norm for the first three groups to be expected to deliver amazing, authentic food at a bargain prices while if an American restaurant is in the $4-8 entree range you're either in Denny's or the independent equivalent?


That's a good question haddock, and one that deserves to be looked at. I think part of it has to do with simple cultural pride (as odd as that sounds) when it comes to our own foods..

American "proletarian food" (meaning food we take for granted and is eaten every day) doesn't get the respect in this country that it deserves. Great pizza, hamburgers and even breakfasts can be made well, and made cheaply in this country. But we allow the McDonalds, Denny's and Pizza Huts to set the collective national standards. But as you and I know, we can make an equavilent quarter pounder with cheese that tastes better than McD's and cost it out roughly the same.

I don't think we (as a culture) have the same expectations when it comes to "ethnic" foods. Generally speaking, the ethnic restaurants in this country have not been put under the same rigorous cost analysis that food franchises put their ingredients under. I also think that a franchise looks for their food to be merely edible, while independant operators of any restaurant have the luxury of concerning themselves with higher quality of tastes. This is merely speculation on my part, and you are in a far better position to address it.

From my own view point, I don't think the ethnicity of the cuisine plays into my expectations at all. But cost certainly does. If Product A and Product B taste similar, yet Product A costs 10 dollars more a plate, I'm going to be ticked at Product A. It's one of the many reasons why I stopped eating at Hotel Restaurants when I travel. They're almost always charging 15 dollars for a seven dollar meal, at least for the quality of the product on the plate.
PermalinkPermalink 01/19/06 @ 11:24
Comment from: Chason [Visitor] · http://www.pinkrobot.org
As a reader who grew up in San Antonio and is now living in Houston, let me add this...

I have an automatic distrust of any mexican restaurant that charges more than $6 for a burrito, or any that tries to provide some sort of "atmosphere". The food almost always inevitably suffers because the beauty of good mexican food (or tex-mex) is the simplicity. Most of the fancy words that fancy restaurants use for their foods simply don't mean much beyond "spiced steak" or something similar.

And to haddock -- its a good point, because their does tend to be a sort of cultural bias here, but I think it doesn't stem from a bias towards ethnic foods, but rather towards American foods. A good diner where the short order cook knows what she is doing shouldn't be outside the $4-8 range either.
PermalinkPermalink 01/19/06 @ 11:26
Comment from: L [Visitor] · http://laraferroni.typepad.com/i_like_food/
El Puerco Lloron is marvelous (as is it's sister restaurant in Bellevue), and I agree with you on preferring the hole-in-the-walls to the chi-chi. Not that I would turn down an ultima margarita from Cactus, mind you.

If you get a chance, you should check out the Tacos Guaymas up in Burlington. They have a whole menu that's not standard for the chain, hand written on 8 1/2 x 11 paper, taped up just below the other menu. The Pollo verde is amazing, as are their fish tacos. I haven't yet driven up there just for that... but it's hard not to make the turn in whenever we are driving up to BC. And warning: the "plates" are huge.

PermalinkPermalink 01/19/06 @ 13:49
Comment from: Melissa Della [Visitor] · http://callete.com/blog/
Since we're talking Seattle Mexican, what do you think of Gorditos? Have you been there?
PermalinkPermalink 01/19/06 @ 16:12
Comment from: L [Visitor] · http://laraferroni.typepad.com/i_like_food/
El Puerco is near Pike Place, along the steps (there's also a great gelato place there for dessert). La Cocina del Puerco is in downtown Bellevue, on Main Street.

I'd also recommend El Gallito (on Madison) for quite good but casual food. Gorditos is great for really, really big burritos. And for a more chi-chi experience, I like El Camino in Fremont.
PermalinkPermalink 01/19/06 @ 23:03
Comment from: Nicholas Caratzas [Visitor]
If someone were to ask me which place I would prefer, I'd have say the first, for reasons I can't quite put my fingers on.


Me too. El Puerco sounds a lot like my favorite local place, which serves up the kinds of dishes my Mexican grandma would have made for me, if I had had a Mexican grandma: simple, tasty and filling.

The stewed chicken tastes like stewed chicken and the pork is tender, fatty and real. The salsas and guacamole are homemade and not fancy but they are fresh, and the folks running the place always make sure you get plenty of everything.

I'm sure a lot of this has to do with the place actually having an abuelita running the kitchen. She's probably been perfecting these dishes over the past 50 years. It's comfort food in an unpretentious setting, and everything's at least 30% cheaper than at the places whose pollo mole is boneless chunks of reheated white meat with some sauce drizzled over the top, who push Margaritas and warn you not to touch the plate because it's hot.
PermalinkPermalink 01/20/06 @ 00:51
Comment from: nina [Visitor] · http://ninaturns40.blogs.com
I used to work at La Sirena Rosa, which is the Mexican music/crafts/video store right next to Puerco Lloron and owned by the same family, so I was lucky enough to eat there just about every day. Ah, the stories I could tell...
PermalinkPermalink 01/21/06 @ 08:24
Comment from: Bounce [Visitor]
We just tried El Gallito and really liked it. No, it doesn't measure up to good Mexican food in Texas or the Southwest and it's not cheap exactly -- but it has better food than Jalisco and a better atmosphere than Guayamas.

We didn't try Mama's because the background noise there was outrageous when we called them. And we didn't try Puerco because they close at 7P on Saturdays. And that's just silly.
PermalinkPermalink 02/11/06 @ 22:54
Comment from: amba [Visitor]
i have been to the original ztejas in austin, tx and the one in bellevue, wa. while the original reigns supreme, mainly due to its homey authentic atmosphere and a menu that is updated with new dishes more frequently, we really enjoy the one out here. you can't beat the happy hour, with $5 margaritas and half price appetizers that taste just as good as the ones in tx and make up a meal in themselves. for happy hour we enjoy jalapeno margaritas with two or three apps, our faves include the tejas trio (including awesome queso), fish tacos, catfish beignets and the shrimp tostada bites.
PermalinkPermalink 06/08/06 @ 16:15

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