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Big Chain Supermarkets vs. Whole Foods

09/29/05 @ 08:19:29 pm, by Jack Email 2962 views • Categories: Food

Hi! I’m Jack from www.ForkandBottle.com. Kate has asked me to be her guest writer for the next few days. My posts won’t have her look, style or superior writing ability - but they are on subjects that I think will be of interest to her readers. So here goes…

Big Chain Supermarkets and Whole Foods: How do these opposites compare? Below you’ll find very biased analyses of what I think are the plusses and minuses of the Big Chains and Whole Foods. As you’ll see, I’m not in love with Whole Foods, yet compared to Big Chain Supermarkets, for me, there is only one choice.

Big Chain Supermarket

The Good
• They’re likely to be open (i.e, long store hours).
• Clean stores.
• Recognizable products – it seems like every big name is there. (Not good to me – but it is to the average shopper.)
• It’s not hard to find the store.

The Not-So-Good
• Produce: Farmers in Chile must love them, some Central Valley guys, too. Small farmers? Sustainable agriculture? Who? What? Huh?
• Employees: Compared to Whole Foods employees, Big Chain Supermarket employees just don’t seem to understand food.
• Often the store is so big it takes forever to get an item you forgot, like milk. Also it takes longer to get everything you need.

The Bad
• Accepts slotting fees. Big-name producers keep out smaller guys, new guys, etc.
• Soda aisle is the High-Fructose Corn Syrup (HFCS) Emporium.
• Actually, every food aisle is the HFCS/PHO (Partially Hydrogenated Oils) aisle. I could not find, during a visit today, a processed frozen food that (excluding milk-based products) didn’t contain one or both.
• Proudly stocks as many candied breakfast cereals as possible.
• In the Tetra-pack drinks (for kids!) section (in the front of the store) all have HFCS as their second ingredient (water is first). Perhaps the ones without HFCS were hidden elsewhere in the store.
• Three words: Farmed Atlantic Salmon.
• Most products are from big-name producers.
• Low cost is always more important than taste, distance shipped, etc.
• Fruit & Vegetables look great but many (like those perfect looking strawberries) come up way short in the smell and taste department.
• Lack of food standards: Impossible to not get your daily dose of bad ingredients like HFCS and PHO.
• Lots of disposable products. One store had a full aisle of them.
• Fish department sells fish of questionable origin, catch method, or which is endangered. It’s very sad that the very endangered Chilean Sea Bass (patagonia toothfish) is now “Sea Bass (big letters), Chilean (small letters), wild”.
• No shortage of over-sweetened products.
• No stocking of ecologically safe cleaning products (such as Ecover, 7th Generation).
• Abysmal stocking of healthy foods for kids.
• Artisanal food products rarely stocked.
• No butcher’s department in some of the huge stores. (Can this be true in general?)

The Very Sad (- based on what they stock…)
• They must be assuming kids aren’t getting enough HFCS and other sweetners in their diet, as they seem to offer no alternatives.
• They must be assuming that “low carb”, “zero carb”, “no fat” and “low fat” products are indispensable “health” products to their shoppers. Watch for “No Trans-fat” products with less than 0.5g of transfat per serving, coming soon.
• They must be assuming that soap, itself, isn’t naturally anti-bacterial. Instead, they have what seems like the complete range of anti-bacterial products – that remove the good bacteria as well as the bad.
• I didn’t find labeling as to which products are GMO. Did I miss it?
• The Organic produce and “Natural Foods” department is always small, filled with less attractive-looking items and priced not-to-sell in a price-conscious store. The organic produce was housed in the mushroom cooler in the last store I was in.
• The meats and poultry mostly come from huge industrial farms/plants (that are serious polluters). If you saw the living conditions of these animals, you’d, - well, let’s just say there’s a reason people become vegetarians.
• The incredible abundance of “ready-to-eat” meals discourages people from buying food to cook. Why bother when you can just microwave, etc.
• Some unbelievably stupid products stocked. (Weight Watchers products that have partially hydrogenated oils, for example.)
• For some products, portions are too big. (Example: Huge BBQ Rib racks are packed two(!) to a package(!!!).)

The Funny
• If you regularly shop at Whole Foods you won’t be able to shop at a Big Chain Supermarket – they won’t have practically any of the products that you’re looking for.

Whole Foods

The Good and The Great
• Some piece-of-mind about what you’re buying. They stock very few bad or stupid products. This is one reason why their shoppers shop there – and are willing to pay more.
• Very good organic produce – both quality and variety.
• Their Fish Department is the best of any chain store in the country (that I know of).
• Wine Department is superior to most any chain grocery I’ve been to (Larry’s Market in the Seattle area was pretty good, too). The Wine Department varies widely from store-to-store, as each store has its own buyer.
• They stock the right diapers and detergents. And not one “anti-bacterial” soap.
• You can buy healthy food and snacks for kids here.
• Real foods can be found, like raw milk, raw butter and grass-fed beef.
• Carry many artisanal food products, but I feel they have a ways to go here.
• Excellent cheese department.
• No slotting fees. This enables them to choose what products are in each store. And a much bigger selection of new products.

The Not-So-Good
• Sometimes (or is it often?) higher prices for the exact same items found at other stores. I’ve seen the same Del Cabo tomatoes for half the price at Trader Joe’s. (In fairness, I saw those Del Cabo tomatoes priced just as high at a Safeway recently.)
• The quality of pre-cooked fish from their deli-area has been inconsistent and discouraging – almost as if it’s not the same fish the fish department has, or that it’s just the oldest fish getting cooked. (This is a standard grocery store practice – cooking or marinating unsold fish (or meats) – but I don’t know if this is normal practice for Whole Foods.)
• The produce is generally not as good as the Farmer’s Markets. (Certainly not as fresh.)

The Bad
• Continues to stock products from vendors such as Hansen’s Sodas and Newman’s Own, both of which still have HFCS in their products (but not all of them) at Whole Foods. Something about being grandfathered in is what I read somewhere. I just don’t understand why they haven’t phased these out.
• Whole365 brand eggs are shipped in from Texas(!)(!!!) to Santa Rosa. What Wile E. Coyote came up with that?
• Too much produce comes from Chile.
• Too much emphasis on stocking products from the big names in Organics that are now mostly owned by Big Food.
• Higher prices on some items than even independent grocers, for no apparent reason, other than people will still pay it.

So here’s the thing – when/if you switch to shopping at Whole Foods, it does take time to figure out the hundreds of different products you’ve probably never seen before. (Curiously, the independent supermarkets where I live have a mix of products Whole Foods and ones that the big chains carry.) And there’s some trial and error. For instance, which is the good raisin bran cereal? (It’s Barbara’s … it even tastes better than Post!) And if you’re super price-conscious, forget-about-it. But if you care about what you feed your family, it’s hard not to shop at Whole Foods.

Also see Kate’s article on slotting fees, “Why Whole Foods Matters (or Safeway Hurts Innovation)” from August 9th.

Side note: I’ve love to see a study comparing the weight of shoppers at Whole Foods vs. Big Chain Supermarkets, by age category (healthy weight should be - to actual weight). The study would weigh in every six months over a three year time period. Waving magic wand, futilely.


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Tara C [Member] Email · http://www.dementedkitty.com
"Small farmers? Sustainable agriculture? Who? What? Huh?" LOL! So funny and so sad... it seems true of most larger grocery chains on either coast of the US.

I've often wondered exactly what you mentioned, if "juice product" manufacturers honestly, deep down in their *cough* souls think that kids just don't get enough HFCS.

The antibacterial bit bugs the heck out of me too. It has for a long time. Soap doesn't need CHEMICAL X to strip the top seven layers of your epidermis away to be effective. Soap tends to kill the majority of germs that may find their way onto a given person's hands via doorknobs and what not throughout the day. What's more, soap does it by using ph against foreign bacteria. A good lather produces an environment that is too basic (as in the opposite ends of the ph scale, acid and base) for invading bacteria and certainly viruses to survive.

Please forgive my ignorance. What is GMO?

I'm with you on the study you mentioned. The results would prove very interesting indeed.

You mentioned that it may take someone a while to switch to shopping at a place like Whole Foods because the products are different. Have you considered putting together a guide to switching to Whole Foods? Perhaps it could be something of an equivalency list... If you buy Kellogg's Raisin Bran then try Barbara's (as you mentioned) and the like.
PermalinkPermalink 09/29/05 @ 21:15
Comment from: Jack [Member] Email · http://www.ForkandBottle.com
Tara - GMO is short for genetically modified organism - a Monsanto specialty. Much of the corn and soybean production in the US is GMO. Many Europeans are violently against GMO products. A while back, one type of GMO corn was found in tortilla shells that had not been tested/approved for human consumption. http://www.netlink.de/gen/Zeitung/2000/000923.html
PermalinkPermalink 09/29/05 @ 21:23
Comment from: Katie [Visitor]
Great comparison! I do shop at WF primarily, though I balance with my local farmer's market, a few things from the supermarket (tissues, for example), and occasionally Balducci's and Trader Joe's. TJ's has many of the same products as WF, and at better prices, but IME the products at TJ's may not be as fresh (nuts, cheese etc.) Plus, until recently, the nearest TJ's were cramped, had little parking, and smelled funny.

It's so nice to have stores where you don't have to worry about PHOs and HFCS. WF seems to research them pretty thoroughly. What's sad is that I read a newspaper article earlier this year that was promoting flavored milks as one (healthy, according to them) way of getting more calcium etc into kids--and every brand mentioned contained HFCS. Oh, and don't get me started on all the breads that contain both PHOs and HFCS ... yikes!
PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 06:23
Comment from: Vickie Brown [Visitor] · http://www.themoveablefeastpcsblogspot.com
I was told a few weeks ago that Trader Joe's would be coming to my home town. I am tickled pink to have them. We have three chain grocery stores here. While they do serve a purpose for the masses, some of us would like to have more organic choices. I don't think that Whole Foods and Trader Joe's are the end all be all but it's a step in the right direction. I have been known in the past to drive 4 hours from my home to the DC area, with a HUGE ice chest and buy everything I could cram into the chest, and then drive home. Thankfully we all have choices and that's the beauty of being a discerning consumer.

PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 06:48
Comment from: Sol [Visitor]
Agree with most of your comments, but what is with the Chile-bashing? What's wrong with chilean produce??
PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 07:23
Comment from: Jack [Member] Email · http://www.ForkandBottle.com
Sol - I have four issues with produce shipped from far away, like Chile: One is that there are the invisible (to the consumer) environmental costs, such as the extra pollution created to get a shipment from Chile rather than from the Central Valley. Two, a generality is that the farther away some type of produce comes from, the more likely it's a hybrid/varietal whose first quality is Transportibility rather than Flavor and Aroma. Third/Fourth, buying produce from Chile does not in any support either local farmers or biodiversity - both very important to me. I want the maximum diversity in what produce I can buy and that only comes from small, independent farmers.
PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 07:51
Comment from: Jack [Member] Email · http://www.ForkandBottle.com
Katie & Vickie - I almost added Trader Joe's as the third one compared. (And thought of Costco as fourth, too.) I, too, don't think that Whole Foods and Trader Joe's (which is better than the Big Supermarket chains) are the end all either.

I love Farmers' Markets and try to buy as much produce as I can there. I also buy most of my pork, lamb and beef from little sustainable guys like Prather Ranch, Potter Valley Farms, Heritage USA, Black Sheep, and more. (Yes, I carry an ice cooler around more than once a week!) Most of my chicken and fish comes from Whole Foods.
PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 08:01
Comment from: Derrick Schneider [Visitor] · http://www.obsessionwithfood.com
Welcome, Jack!

I've mentioned this to Kate in the past, but Whole Foods is very unwilling to let their employees unionize (see the admittedly biased http://www.wholeworkersunite.org/). Depending on your view of unions, of course, you may view this as a good thing or a bad thing.
PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 08:07
Comment from: barrett [Visitor] · http://www.toomanychefs.com
I think you've created a somewhat false dichotomy here. Whole Foods is a big chain supermarket.

Yes, they do many things better than your average Albertson's or Safeway-owned chain, but the I much prefer the local markets, especially those in the ethnic neighborhoods where the produce is usually much more flavorful.

For my brown rice and granola items, I use a health-food store in town. They have the best selection of items like malt syrup, seaweed, and other items not likely to be in Aisle 6 in the megamart.

I use Whole Foods and Trader Joe's but usually just for Organic Milk and in Trader Joe's case, frozen foods. Whole Foods is just too expensive and most of that extra expense isn't because they have better products, just a higher profit margin.
PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 08:12
Comment from: Jack [Member] Email · http://www.ForkandBottle.com
Derrrick - You've made me aware in the past about Union issues with Whole Foods. I just really don't know enough about it to comment on it - but I suspect it's a very complex issue.

Barrett - My article was originally going to be Safeway vs. Whole Foods, but it just didn't seem fair/right to single Safeway out when the other big guys are so similar to them. The three Whole Foods nearest me, btw, are much smaller than the smaller Safeways and Albertsons near me.
PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 09:05
Comment from: jen [Visitor] · http://www.lifebeginsat30.com
Great post. I will add one point that's important to me: The farmers I know who have dealt with Whole Foods feel that WF is good to them -- fair and loyal. That's saying a lot in my book.

(And by the way I have not heard as good of things from farmers about TJ's but that's a different story)

I'm with you in the "neither is the be all and end all" camp.
PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 09:44
Comment from: Barbara Fisher [Visitor] · http://www.tigerberries.blogspot.com
Chilean produce might also be farmed using pesticides that are banned in the US as unsafe--this puts the food at risk for contamination and it also is risky for the farmers in Chile.

In addition, farm workers in Chile may or may not be working in safe conditions which pay them a living wage.

I refuse to buy cheap grapes that are kept cheap by the sweat of near-slave labor. I simply will not do it.

I am glad to know that it isn't just some TJ's that smell funny--I thought it was just me! It must be the cheese deparment, but a lot of TJ's stores I have been to smell like really dirty feet.

I still buy their pasta, though. And olive oil.

I buy from a lot of different sources--local farmers, the farmer's market, the North Market in Columbus (when we get up there), the local health food place called The Farmacy, a CSA, and the local Krogers store, which btw, carries a huge amount of locally produced foods and has a huge natural foods section, a large international foods section, and carries locally produced meats. That's where I found the locally made organic tofu that is the best tofu I have ever eaten.

So--not all chains are evil, and quite a few of them will bow to local tastes, desires and demands, as has happened here in Athens, Ohio.
PermalinkPermalink 09/30/05 @ 10:35
Comment from: Tana [Visitor] · http://smallfarms.typepad.com
Jack, I appreciate the thoroughness of this post. Especially true is emphasizing the Chilean produce. The cost of fossil fuel calories to ship it, along with the question of its likely saturation with pesticides, makes it a bad choice all around.

Good work. Thanks.


PermalinkPermalink 10/04/05 @ 09:17
Comment from: mzn [Visitor] · http://haverchuk.blogspot.com
Of course there are some ways in which WF is preferable to the megamarts, but there's a problem I have with the way this comparison is framed and with the way the commenters have taken up this issue. We are always tempted to think about food as a matter of individual choices. Every day, each of us has to decide what to eat or not to eat. If everyone shopped at WF instead of the conventional stores, we believe, the world would be a better place. Of course this isn't happening any time soon, not least because there are way too few WF stores to go around. The larger reason is that WF is targeted at only a segment of the population: people of a high enough class status to know and care about the issues discussed above. Among other things, WF exists to satisfy a lifestyle. People shopping there might flatter themselves that their choices are to the planet's benefit, but the planet is too needy for WF (and TJ's, and the farmer's markets) to be its best salvation. By making consumer choices into badges of good citizenship we risk losing sight of the need for larger, more significant forms of action. For the whole society's benefit, corporations and governments as well as individuals must adopt different policies and practices. It's the institutional changes that are most significant and hardest to effect.
PermalinkPermalink 10/04/05 @ 10:16
Comment from: Jack [Member] Email · http://www.ForkandBottle.com
Some thoughts that came to mind while reading the comments above:

I think what's terrible is that almost all (or all) of the products in certain categories in conventional supermarkets contain the unhealthy ingredients (incl. HFCS, PHOs, and high levels of sweetness), making it next to impossible for their shoppers to buy healthy food. I also just keep thinking that the upcoming Obesity Lawsuits will win juries over on this point alone. Just how will they explain that the least healthy cereals are in the "Family Section" (kids) rather than the "Adult Section"?

Every food purchase is also a vote. Buying super cheap food that comes from polluters of the environment and payers of poor wages seems to be fine with most people.

I also think Whole Foods wouldn't be the success it is if the big guys weren't doing exactly what they are doing.
PermalinkPermalink 10/04/05 @ 13:02
Comment from: Colleen [Visitor]
I'd like to plug Wegman's. This store is almost perfect.

Great employees, huge organic/natural variety of foods, and great prices!

No, I don't work for them, but I'll drive 30 minutes out of my way just to shop there...it's that impressive.
PermalinkPermalink 10/05/05 @ 07:22
Comment from: McAuliflower [Visitor] · http://www.BrowniePointsBlog.com
Our town of Eugene is rumored to get a WF located in our downtown. While I first thought it was a great idea, I'm very concerned about the competition with the downtown located farmers market and the local independently owned grocery stores (one also downtown).

What I'm chewing on is how WF compares to my independent local stores. It seems that all WF really has to offer is that they know how to make things look pretty, and have the space and lighting to do it.

I've been aware of the WF workers-unite blog, but my local places aren't union either.

Buying groceries isn't about the food anymore.
PermalinkPermalink 10/06/05 @ 10:04
Comment from: Jack [Member] Email · http://www.ForkandBottle.com
In Sebastopol, CA, the Whole Foods is located across the street from the Farmers' Market. I might be wrong, but I've seen no harm or even on their proximity to the success of this Farmer's Market.

I also know that a Whole Foods opened in NYC fairly recently (last 2 yrs) very close to the big Green Market there. I have not heard that it's hurt sales..but perhaps someone in NYC could tell us?
PermalinkPermalink 10/06/05 @ 11:04
Comment from: sandra [Visitor]
Are you kidding? Get real. Whole Foods - better known as Whole Paycheque - is a big chain supermarket. Not to mention it is one that the vast majority of people cannot afford. You can purchase healthy, natural products whereever you shop. Take responsibility. Read the label. Eat fresh food locally produced whenever possible and whenever you can afford it. Don't blame the supermarket for people's poor choices. Ever heard of supply and demand?
PermalinkPermalink 10/06/05 @ 21:37
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
Sandra, although Whole foods is indeed a chain, it is certainly not big...177 locations I believe. That makes it less than 1 percent of the market.


" it is one that the vast majority of people cannot afford"

Well, define "vast majority". Clearly by their sales figures people can afford Whole Foods.

There are items that generally cause higher grocery bills at Whole Foods... Meat, cheese and wine come to mind. But I've found the majority of other products equal in price to other supermarkets and (in regard to produce) farmers markets.

Granted, this is purely my experience and YMMV. But using the term "Whole Paycheck" is generalizing.
PermalinkPermalink 10/07/05 @ 08:33
Comment from: sandra [Visitor]
Thank you, Kate, for your diplomatic response. I meant no disrespect with mine. I feel frustrated by people's misplaced, in my opinion, loyalties toward one giant retailer versus another. OK, it's not giant, but it's big. Whole Foods is different in some ways from other supermarkets, but it is fundamentally the same as all supermarkets in that its goal is to sell more for more to make more - not change the collective eating habits of a nation. I like to shop at Whole Foods now and then, but I can buy the same high quality product elsewhere for less money and with a slightly clearer conscience.
PermalinkPermalink 10/07/05 @ 13:28
Comment from: Sandra P [Visitor]
I do 80% of my weekly shopping at WholeFoods or PCC Natural Markets.

Re the amount on the docket at the end of my WholeFoods or PCC Natural Markets shopping spree, not a lot different to the other grocery stores in my area.
PermalinkPermalink 10/09/05 @ 08:38
Comment from: mzn [Visitor] · http://haverchuk.blogspot.com
"people can afford whole foods"--yes, the people who can afford it afford it. Poor follks aren't their target market.

I'd rather have evidence for my claims, Kate, and the nearest WF is at least 75 miles from me, but I think you're wrong about their prices being equal to those of the big supermarkets. My memory from when I lived in Madison was that WF's frozen dinners, soda, peanut butter, pasta, Asian ingredients and sauces, dairy, vinegars, etc., were pricey. One can get these things for less at the megamart (though not the identical brands, of course). The essence of WF's business model is that they can charge more for the added value they offer. And the perception of added value requires a higher price tag. (Trader Joe's is another story.)

I took the term "whole paycheck" to be hyperbole, not intended to mislead anyone but to make a valid point with a flourish of rhetoric.
PermalinkPermalink 10/09/05 @ 11:18
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
haverchuk, you make a good point. I think it is about time we get some proof, at least from a Seattle-ites perspective.

Perhaps we can come up with a list of products that we should check at several different locations here in Seattle. Whole Foods, QFC, Pike Place Market and Uwijimaya (a supermarket for the local Asian Community here in Seattle).


Off the top of my head, I suggest the following products:

Milk
Eggs
Loaf of Bread
Granny Smith Apples
Cucumbers
Onions
Romaine lettuce
Salmon
Price per lb - boneless Chicken breasts
Price per lb - ground beef
1 pint of vanilla ice cream
Oreo Style Cookies

It may take a coupld of days for me to collect such data, but I think it'd be worth it, even if on only an anecdotal level. Any other product Suggestions?

You're right, I don't think Sandra was trying to mislead anyone, but to use a bit of hyperbolic language without data to back it up does lead to extending a reputation that the company may not deserve.

I should also state for the record, that all evidence to the contrary, I don't believe Whole Foods to be the end all be all. I just think they're approach is better than Kroger's or Safeway. That being said, there are better pricing alternatives to Whole Foods, Kroger's, etc.
PermalinkPermalink 10/09/05 @ 21:27
Comment from: sandra [Visitor]
Of course "whole paycheque" was hyperbolic rhetoric. Anyone who didn't get that is just too serious.

And as far as proof goes, Kate, I'll be interested in the results of your experiment. Don't forget, people who can't afford Whole Foods aren't choosing the most expensive brand offered by their supermarkets either.

The problem I have with discussions like these among food bloggers is the general snobbery - note that I used the word "general" because this is a generalization! You won't meet a bigger foodie than me. I think nothing of dropping $20 on a hunk of imported cheese, and life is good when there is fois gras pate and good quality Champagne in the fridge. Heck, I paid $8 for salt last week! But I only have one tiny child to support and two healthy incomes to through around. Many people aren't so lucky.

Whole Foods is doing just fine. It doesn't need defending. I'm sure its marketing team of highly paid, ambitious and skilled individuals is hard at work.

People can buy whole foods and all manner of fresh product at reasonable prices at any supermarket.
PermalinkPermalink 10/10/05 @ 18:50
Comment from: cookiecrumb [Visitor] · http://madeater.blogspot.com
Hi Jack!
Great post. Sorry I'm late.
I'm thrilled that you're ranting on the HFCS/PHO issues. Couldn't agree more.
I just wanted to add that Whole Foods sources its meats from producers that farm and butcher humanely, which matters a lot to me. (And the CEO of WF is now a converted vegan.)
PermalinkPermalink 10/17/05 @ 20:15
Comment from: Kyra [Visitor] Email
got really ill after eating WW Meals und all products from WW after 2 years. It was so easy. I didn't miss anything...BUT after 2 Years I got very ill.. I'm from Germany, I'm looking for people in the USA to sue them. Do you know anyone, woh get ill too from the WW meals und other MM stuff? I got CFIDS and more. I think in der Products of WW is nor enought ensaturated fat. It makes you really ill.
Mail to

Anisimov-Schulze@gmx.de
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/08 @ 02:15
Comment from: Kyra [Visitor] Email
this is my opinion, I would like to proove it
PermalinkPermalink 05/02/08 @ 02:37

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