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Risotto alla Milanese

07/27/05, by Kate Hopkins Email 3306 views • Categories: Rice, Italian

Risotto alla Milanese

Risotto. Grana Cheese. Saffron.

Let's call this a very special holy trinity.

Edouard de Pomain, a French docotor of the Pasteur Institute said of Risotto alla Milanese "The national dish of Lombardy" and claimed each grain of the rice "gilded" with gold.

This is a beef risotto, typically made with Grana cheese, rather than Parmesan, the dish will typically have beef marrow as well. If you so desire, mushrooms would also work quite well.

  • 5 cups beef consomme or broth
  • 1 oz beef marrow, chopped (optional)
  • 3 Tablespoons butter
  • 1 medium yellow onion, sliced
  • 12 oz Arborio rice
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine (pinot grigio or orvieto will work nicley)
  • 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
  • 6 Tablespoons Grana Padano cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano will work, but you will end up with a saltier dish)
  • Italian Parsley, for garnish

In a medium sauce pan, heat the beef consomme to a simmer.

In a large skillet, melt the marrow with the butter. When the butter is completely liquid, add the onions, and saute until just browned (about 10-12 minutes).

Add the rice to the skillet, and pour in the wine, allowing it to evaporate while you stir it into the rice. Using a ladle, pour 1/2 cup of the consomme into the rice, stirring and allowing the liquid to evaporate. Continue this process until you have one ladle of broth left. By this time your risotto should be creamy and al dente.

As you pour in the last ladle of broth, add the saffron. Cook and stir, again allowing the liquid to evaporate as best as possible. At the very end, add the cheese and stir in thoroughly.

Place in a bowl, and serve (eating with a spoon in the traditional Milanese style)

Serves 4-6


Comments, Pingbacks:

Comment from: Tara C [Member] Email · http://www.dementedkitty.com
The recipe here mentiones marrow as optional. Did you use it?
PermalinkPermalink 07/27/05 @ 10:23
Comment from: Derrick Schneider [Visitor] · http://www.obsessionwithfood.com
Consommme? Wow. I'm all for using homemade stock, but don't you lose the clarity of the consomme once you saturate it with marrow, butter, rice, cheese, and rice starch?
PermalinkPermalink 07/27/05 @ 10:26
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
I did indeed use marrow, having purchased several bones from Whole Foods, and then spending several minutes digging out the 1 oz of marrow.

PermalinkPermalink 07/27/05 @ 10:38
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
Derrick,

In reading up on the history of this dish, I found that Waverly Root mentioned in his "Foods of Italy" that consomme is the traditional liquid of choice in Milan for this recipe. That's why I mentioned it first in the recipe.

I, however, with little time on my hands, used a beef broth (also acceptable and in several recipes on the web). So I am unaware of the differences in taste that might occur if one were to use consomme.

I suspect the taste differences would be subtle yet apparent to those with a refined pallate, but appearance-wise, the difference would be close to nil.
PermalinkPermalink 07/27/05 @ 10:43
Comment from: Barbara Fisher [Visitor] · http://www.tigerberries.blogspot.com
Consumme--I don't see much point in using it for risotto. Homemade stock, yes--consumme--why?

I love the writing of Waverly Root--don't get me wrong, but in this case, I suspect that he may have been talking about how it is done in professional kitchens of high end restaurants in Milan, not how most folks in Milan make it. And Root wasn't always careful about saying, "I am talking about the most refned version of the dish, not the way most normal people make it."

Sounds very tasty. And yes--bone marrow makes for a very flavorful end result.
PermalinkPermalink 07/27/05 @ 10:57
Comment from: Derrick Schneider [Visitor] · http://www.obsessionwithfood.com
Interesting about Waverly Root's assertion (I have his books on my shelf, but along with many other fantastic reads, I haven't read it yet). I don't have a reason to doubt him, but it just seems like you'd do a lot of extra work for no appreciable gain.

I guess, now that I think about it, the argument for the consomme might be that it allows the delicate flavor of the saffron to be in the foreground a bit more. You could up the saffron of course, but that's not exactly a cheap alternative. If that's the logic, perhaps a dilute stock would be a (much!) quicker alternative.
PermalinkPermalink 07/27/05 @ 11:08
Comment from: Amy [Visitor] · http://www.cookingwithamy.com
Why Grana? I always think of it as poor man's Parmigiano Reggiano...perhaps I'm just being an elistist snob again.
PermalinkPermalink 07/27/05 @ 21:53
Comment from: farmgirl [Visitor] · http://farmgirlfare.com
Looks and sounds delicious!
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/05 @ 07:58
Comment from: Kate Hopkins [Member] Email · http://www.accidentalhedonist.com
Amy,

It's my opinion that Grana is not intentionally a Poor Man's Parmigiano Reggiano for two distinct reasons:

1) I believe Grana pre-dates Parmigiano Reggiano by a century or so (Padano is reputed to appear roughly around 1000 AD while Parm comes around 1100 AD)..

2) Although Grana has a similar taste to PR (due in large part to a similar creation process), it's still rather distinct. Far more "milky" and far less salty than PR, I think it stands quite well on it's own.

The reason I chose Grana is that Grana is very much a Lombardy cheese, and since it's similar to PR, i thought it would make a more traditional Lombardy dish.

And I don't think you're a snob at all. You simply adore Parmigiano Reggiano...an opinion I completely agree with.
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/05 @ 08:25
Comment from: megwoo [Visitor] · http://www.iheartbacon.com
Kate,
This looks absolutely amazing and soul comforting. Nice work!
PermalinkPermalink 07/28/05 @ 11:17

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